Jeff2475 Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 My partners and I are planning a climb of Mt Fairweather this year via the Carpe ridge. We plan to start from the ocean. Based on historical information on weather conditions we are planning to begin our climb at the end of April. If anyone has done this route and has any suggestions or precautions we would appreciate any input we can get! Thanks! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Contact ranger Joe Reichert at NPS Denali. He's done Fairweather from the sea; I don't know what route though. And he's a great guy, he'll be stoked to give you beta. Tell him Mark 'Ramenless' sent you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builder206 Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Jeff2475, once you're back, please post a TR here (with lots of pictures). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Gary Clark has done it and has some info here: http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/fairwthr/beta.htm He was extremely helpful when I was planning a trip to Alaska. He can be reached here: naclassics@usa.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff2475 Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 Thanks Daniel! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 (edited) Here's a link to a trip that sailed out of Port Townsend and climbed Fairweather - although their route description is vague. Supposedly there is a route up Sea Otter Creek/Glacier that climbs the west ridge from the Pacific, but it may be Carpe Ridge they're talking about. I've wanted to do this climb for a long time, but I'll likely take the "cheater's" route up the Northwest Basin from an air landing at 8000 feet if I ever go. Don't forget that the Fairweather Fault is about 20 years overdue for the big earthquake that rocks this region every 30 years or so. I would not want to be crossing Desolation Valley or anywhere near Lituya Bay when that happens. http://www.angelfire.com/or/petermarsh/mountfair.htm edit: My understanding is that GBNP modified their earlier strict rules and began allowing aircraft landings on Fairweather Glacier near the base of the Carpe years ago. If you're starting from the sea for personal reasons that is very cool. But you can bypass quite a bit of nastiness if you prefer. Edited January 5, 2008 by Fairweather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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