[TR] Mount Baker - Roman Nose Variation 12/8/2007

[jordansahls]

Trip: Mount Baker - Roman Nose Variation

 

Date: 12/8/2007

 

Trip Report:

The original climb was supposed to be the North Ridge, but getting over to the route looked like a pain in the ass, so Stanislov and myself(Jordan) decided to climb the Roman Nose, or a variation of.

 

time: car to car in 25 hours

 

note: Does anyone have information on the history of this route? All I know is that it doesnt seem to get climbed all that much.

 

the Route

 

Me getting closer to the first ice pitch (sort of).

 

Stani getting pummeled by spindrift on the short WI3 pitch

 

Climbing up the second gully (what the hell is that blotchey thing? Oh wait, yeah)

 

just above the second gully, the exposure was fantastic, and stayed that way untill we reached the crest of the Roman Nose.

 

Gear Notes:

5 ice screws

3 pickets

usual glacier gear

warm clothes

 

 

Approach Notes:

We were able to drive all the way to the trailhead. Standard coleman approach.

Edited December 12, 2007 by jordansahls

[Blake]

Nice job guys. Great shots!

[kurthicks]

Nice guys. I saw you heading up there (we were on the lower Coleman), but thought you were skiing.

 

I believe that route is known as the "Pencil Thin Roman Mustache"

[jordansahls]

Thanks for the info Kurt, did you guys go all the way? The Roman wall was in shitty skiing condition, so we figured everyone went to the saddle then skied down.

[kurthicks]

nope, we were just teaching a course on the Coleman. beautiful weather though, eh?

[jordansahls]

amazing weather, couldn't have asked for better. It was very very cold though. I ended up getting a little bit of frost nip on my hands and feet.

[tvashtarkatena]

Strong work. Beautiful spot.

[jport]

Way to go guys! Nice line!

I'm wondering what you encountered midway up that route... your photo shows that you traversed right below a rock face. Was there a pitch of vertical ice that you navigated around?

[letsroll]

yo gayport

 

Looks interesing. Might be able to talk myself into going if there is a weather window

[jordansahls]

Way to go guys! Nice line!

I'm wondering what you encountered midway up that route... your photo shows that you traversed right below a rock face. Was there a pitch of vertical ice that you navigated around?

 

Yeah, there is a short WI3 up to a little step. Once on the step you have 2 options.

 

1.) Climb directly up the ice face, probably 15 meters of WI4, or..

2.) Take the gully to your right, WI/AI 2+

 

We opted to take the gully on the right because it offered some protection from the spin drift that was hammering us on the direct line.

Edited December 14, 2007 by jordansahls

[i_like_sun]

Nice guys. I saw you heading up there (we were on the lower Coleman), but thought you were skiing.

 

I believe that route is known as the "Pencil Thin Roman Mustache"

 

I remember you pointing this route out Kurt!

 

FAN-TASTIC climb guys! Thanks for sharing

[jordansahls]

Thanks for all the kind words. Great route, highly recommended.