Stewart Peak Northeast Rib

[cheamclimber]

on Stewart Peak in the Cheam Range there is the North Butress and to the left of that there is a long rib of rock between two snowy gullies. Does anybody know if this rib has been climbed?

 

 

 

The original photo was taken by G-Spotter.

The red arrows point at the rib in question, the obvious butress to the right in the North Butress and the snowy gully is the NE Couloir.

Edited November 16, 2007 by cheamclimber

[G-spotter]

I don't think it has but a better question for you to ponder is... why it hasn't been.

[jordop]

Oooo, wait, I know the answer!!

[cheamclimber]

The approach isn't too bad actually (bushwacking down the valley from the nearest logging road) and the rock on that side of the mountain is signifigantly better than most rock in the cheam range. It just looks like it could be a fun spring climb.

[G-spotter]

You might also ask yourself why the original North Buttress route, despite being put up >30 years ago, has never been repeated...

[cheamclimber]

^Is the issue access, rock quality or difficulty?^ cuz I don't really understand why nobody's repeated the N Butress.

[Don_Serl]

good eye, lad. get in there and climb that thing.

 

i suspect the absence of repeats on Stewart is mainly attributable to the reputation that the whole Cheam range has for poor rock. that reputation is well deserved for the most part, but there are areas of decent rock too. you never know till u rub your nose in it - the whole group is really spectacular, and i suspect gets far less traffic than it did a cpl decades ago when 'mountaineers' just went out and climbed stuff, rather than focussing on more technical routes, which necessitates better rock.

 

the access up there is pretty good lately, too, eh?

 

cheers,

Edited November 16, 2007 by Don_Serl

[tlinn]

Keep your youthful enthusiasm cheamclimber!!

 

Yeah, rock in the Cheam Range isn't the best and the route you are looking at is probably quite low angled and maybe not the best for technical rock climbing. If it holds snow in the winter you can bet that the angle must be down around 50 degrees or so in spots. You never know though, it might be a fun climb especially if you are just getting into mountaineering...having said that any day in the mountains is a good day.

 

Go do it and tell us!

[eeyun]

Those couloirs look awesome!

[eeyun]

What would the best approach be for the NF of Stewart peak? Via Jones lake looks to be the most direct, but I'm not sure how far it's possible to drive once you actually get to the lake. Could be an extra few clicks.

[cheamclimber]

Theres a spur road that goes up the valley towards stewart after passing the lake. At the fork in the spur road take the lower road and at the end bushwack your way down the valley towards the valley floor and then up the other side towards stewart. In the winter and spring the crap in the valley should be filled with snow and make the approach relatively easy.... its a cool spot so go there but DONT CLIMB THE RIB...its mine! I just need to find someone else who wants to climb it now...hint hint

Edited November 17, 2007 by cheamclimber

[G-spotter]

DONT CLIMB THE RIB...its mine!

 

 

the reason most people don't instantly tell everyone they possibly can when they spot an unclimbed line, is because it's first come first served in the mountains. there are no dibs.

[cheamclimber]

ya...that was meant to be sorta sarcastic...

[G-spotter]

oh, i don't think you're gonna have to take a number

[Don_Serl]

the issue these days is more who's gonna ski the couloirs on either side of it, eh? or, would be if it was up Whistler / Duffey Lk way instead of 'lost' in the Cascades.

cheers,

[cheamclimber]

Those Couloirs look pretty nice, probably the best descent if I try the rib and G-Spotters right...I don't think theres a big line up for this mountain at the moment.

[eeyun]

The bridge that crosses Jones creek on the Jones lake FSR is out. The creek is pretty wide, so crossing it might be a bit tricky, especially in the spring with snow melt.

 

We poked around for a place to cross the creek but couldnt' find anywhere in the vicinity of the mainline.

[kevbone]

G spotter. Why you gotta be an ass in a non spray forum. Just because you think you know it all does not give you the right to be a jerk. This person started a perfectly good thread and asked legitimate questions and you go on and on about nothing related to getting this person to the top of his/her disired quest. So if you have nothing but negative stuff to say....why dont you try and zipping it for a change?

 

Cheers.