PT Couple Summits all 44 Olympic Peaks over 7K

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Not sure if this made it in another forum or not, but it's pretty cool, especially over only 4 years.

http://www.ptleader.com/main.asp?SectionID=36&SubSectionID=55&ArticleID=19166&TM=18059.3

From the PT Leader, 10/31

PT couple summits 44 Olympic peaks

 

By Celeste Flint, Leader Staff Writer

 

Although names such as Desperation Peak, Gasp Pinnacle and Devil's Fang would cause most to imagine frightening images of people dangling helplessly off the side of a cliff, one Port Townsend couple thinks they're rather neat.

 

Perhaps this is because the couple has summited each of these peaks, along with the 41 other 7,000-foot-plus peaks in the Olympic Mountain range.

 

It began about four years ago, when friends of Henry and Karen Nichols took them on a climb up Mount Olympus for Henry's 50th birthday. Henry is a Port Townsend dentist, and Karen works in his office.

 

"We've been in the mountains all of our lives. We just never climbed," Henry said. "It made us realize there was a whole vertical dimension that we hadn't explored."

 

After scaling Mount Olympus, the Nichols started learning more about climbing by taking classes and practicing in a gym. Then they found "the book," titled the Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains.

 

At the guide's end there is a list of the peaks organized by height. The Nichols' copy has check marks next to the tallest ones.

 

"We saw the list and said maybe we should do that, so we did," Henry said.

 

Although the couple is uncertain about Henry being the first man to accomplish the feat, they're fairly confident Karen is the first woman to summit all of the Olympic Mountain peaks.

 

"We're pretty sure we're the only couple who have done it," Henry said.

 

They said that climbing is a great sport for people of all ages.

 

"It gives you incredible access to beauty and incredible things people never get to see," Karen said.

 

After the Nichols accomplished their goal of climbing all the Olympic peaks in summer 2006, one of the peaks was removed from the 7,000-feet-and-higher list. The Nichols are guessing it has to do with global positioning systems being able to provide more accurate heights.

 

"It's sort of like Pluto," Karen said.

 

Pluto was recently demoted from its "planet" classification to "dwarf planet."

 

Challenges

 

Before getting to a summit, climbers have to do a fair amount of hiking, and the peaks aren't always easy to find.

 

"One of the problems with the Olympics is that the approaches are really long," Henry said.

 

They'd often have to hike 18 to 25 miles before they could set up camp and begin climbing.

 

"Most of the approaches are on trails, but there is significant elevation gain," Henry said.

 

Because the hike-ins are so long, the Nichols often climbed multiple peaks in one trip. Their longest trip was more than 10 days, in which they summited 10 peaks.

 

Once the climbing began, they left the trails, so it was important that they were good at finding routes, reading maps and using a hand-held GPS.

 

"It's kind of fun, because it challenges you to find some of [the peaks]," Karen said.

 

Long approaches mean climbers need to bring all the appropriate hiking gear as well. Consequently, packs can weigh as much as 70 pounds.

 

"The main issue is that you want to be frugal with your weight," Henry said. "Karen dehydrated our food."

 

On one hike they even had some friends hike in with a supply of food.

 

"We had support from some of our buddies," Karen noted.

 

In addition to long approaches, the Olympic Mountains aren't popular because the rock is "bad," or "rotten."

 

"The rock is not solid. It's loose, and quite often the rock will come off in your hand," Karen said.

 

This loose rock also causes a significant amount of rock fall, which makes wearing a helmet critical.

 

"We have both been hit by rocks, but neither of us has ever been scared," Henry said. "I don't think it's that dangerous; it's hard, though."

 

One of the more difficult climbs was up Sniffer Spire.

 

"The rock is really bad and there isn't a lot of protection, and it's pretty technical," Henry said.

 

When the couple reached the top, they found the climber registry under an empty tuna fish can. Judging by the registry, they think they were the third group to summit the peak. The first group reached it in 1962, and the second summit was in the 1970s.

 

Preparation

 

Before climbing, the Nichols prepare physically by working out five or six days a week for as long as an hour.

 

"We 'Nordic Ski' quite a bit, and we row in rowing shells. We hike a lot," said Karen. "We do fast walking with hand weights."

 

They said that weight training is also important. However, they don't run, because it's hard on their knees.

 

They also suggested that before climbers start hiking, they make a gear list and check each other's bags before leaving for the mountain.

 

Technical climbing

 

Since summiting all of the Olympic peaks, the Nichols haven't done much hiking in the peninsula range.

 

"Our interest now lies in more technical climbing," Henry said.

 

"With better rock," Karen added.

 

Technical climbing requires more strategy, and many consider it a key factor in the difficulty of a climb.

 

"It's sort of like a puzzle," Karen said. "It all has to be planned and strategized."

 

They said they plan on climbing in the Cascades more often, and they just returned from a three-week trip to Europe, where they climbed for two weeks.

 

"That was all technical climbing," Karen said.

 

During the trip, they started by climbing in the Dolomites of northeast Italy and finished in the Julian Alps of Slovenia.

 

"It's pretty much a limitless challenge," Henry said of climbing. "I think the whole conquering thing is a misconception."

 

"It's the journey, not the summit," Karen added.

[olyclimber]

thats awesome. some dedicated peak bagging!

[saragrace]

Henry was my childhood dentist. Rock on, PT!

 

[rmncwrtr]

That is really cool.