[TR] beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf 9/15/2007

[ivan]

Trip: beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf

 

Date: 9/15/2007

 

Trip Report:

fantubulous day on the monolith - cool w/ a breeze - endless trains and the redneck across the river firing off several cannons every few minutes

 

jensens needs to get climbed more - very, very fun - bring doubles of damn near everything up to #4, plus a #5 - the crack itself is clean but the stemming is all fucked up by the overabudance of lichen on the walls - the 3rd pithc is ecstatic fun up to the trail - plenty of poison oak to wade through just below the railings - the route needs anchor replacement and traffic and it'd be classic - at least where the anchor bolts are shitty there's like twenty to clip between

 

s-wolf similiar silly fun - need to go someday when i can do the final pitches above big ledge - wish i was a real climber, had to use my patented french technique often - i heart fifi hooks - how the hell is the last 10 feet of the route up to big ledge not 11? jeebus!

 

god i love beacon - the whole iraq war thing woulda been worth it to me if only we'd be able to keep the rock open yearround b/c of it!

 

Gear Notes:

bring a lot of everything, especially if yer lame like me

 

Approach Notes:

dog poo still on the trail

[ivan]

wow - yeah, i musta got more oak on me then i thought at first - my face, hands and forearms are all beginning the process of the zombie melt-down - think this time i'll be taking the steroids before children start running from me n' crying

[billcoe]

Link to cures for poison oak

 

Read this and act immediately.

[ivan]

thanks for the advice bill - when i realized i'd probably eaten some of the oil and that it was breaking out all over my face i went to the doctor and got prednisone - time will tell how it works out, but in the meantime i'm feeling like running a goddamn marathon! woke up after 4 hours of sleep this morning ready to rock!

 

my poor kids at school - i talk fast enough as is...

 

back to the pt - more folks need to do jensens - brush out all the lichen for the stemming - cut out the oak at the trail exit (wish the park would do that, it's right on the railings)- putting in some modern anchors ain't a bad idea either

 

and what's the deal w/ stephenwolf? is 10c really right for that roof right below big ledge? i wasn't even close to freeing that part! it must go back more than a body length, and no feet at all

[ivan]

Trip: beacon rawk - jensens ridge n' stephenwolf

 

Date: 9/15/2007

 

Trip Report:

fantubulous day on the monolith - cool w/ a breeze - endless trains and the redneck across the river firing off several cannons every few minutes

 

jensens needs to get climbed more - very, very fun - bring doubles of damn near everything up to #4, plus a #5 - the crack itself is clean but the stemming is all fucked up by the overabudance of lichen on the walls - the 3rd pithc is ecstatic fun up to the trail - plenty of poison oak to wade through just below the railings - the route needs anchor replacement and traffic and it'd be classic - at least where the anchor bolts are shitty there's like twenty to clip between

 

s-wolf similiar silly fun - need to go someday when i can do the final pitches above big ledge - wish i was a real climber, had to use my patented french technique often - i heart fifi hooks - how the hell is the last 10 feet of the route up to big ledge not 11? jeebus!

 

god i love beacon - the whole iraq war thing woulda been worth it to me if only we'd be able to keep the rock open yearround b/c of it!

 

Gear Notes:

bring a lot of everything, especially if yer lame like me

 

Approach Notes:

dog poo still on the trail

wow, been going on 8 years since i done this first - amazing we did s-wulf the same day - not got quite that much moxie in the tank these days

 

1/25 - day 3 - a day to die for - the circle complete - beacon set to close up shop for a mighty long season but fate vouch-safed to chuck this plum in a poor fools lap before it could sling off into spring

 

'twas a week for settling old scores - my court-date a comely kick-off, it was time to finish the climb adam and i had started that ill-omened late autumn day - we'd bailed from 2 pitches up, having to leave a tangle of biners and webbing to make the 5 lbj-era bolts up there work - hate to let a year go by w/o climbing jensens, and lordy didn't the stars align to reclaim the gear and get lit like a lord in doing so

 

first it was me n' adam on the list - then it was me n' adam n' goeff - it grew then to the 3 of us n' bryan too, then finally even fucking mike was coming out of his homo-biking hermitage to have at it w/ o - a 5-spot for fortune n' fleeting greatness

 

started poorly enough - me n' mike sitting at the b.k. for a good bit waiting for the assembly of demi-gods to gaggle together - eventually bryan and goeff showed a half hour late but i didn't mind - heavy fog in camas but frequently giant flocks of geese would go raging by above, gaudy as ghosts, gallumping off north - we gave adam 3 minutes to arrive then called to discover he was still snoozing in bed - damn, my cheap oregon smokes were in danger (and shit, i never did give that boy his 5-spot! remind me when next we meet, hear?)

 

sunny on the south side but a bit of a breeze - quite the clown-fucking convention we had to contend with - eventually we got it settled - geoff lead p1 whle mike belays and bryan and i get to guzzle beer and recollect it as recreation

 

geoff got his redemption for shitting between the sheets last month in a steel breeze - mike followed then bryan - adam was there by then, and goeff chucked down the other end of a 70 as bryan was climbing so i could send up another line and the li'l dawg - bryan cast off on p2 as i started jugging and i had a penthouse view of him slip-slidign away on the awful slippery lichenated stone - i had some gut-chuckles w/ the boys n' a butt too as we buttoned-up against the breeze, then bryan was there and i went on up to him to help out in getting An Anchor For a Modern Era

 

bryan was over his dream of repeating a free-ascent of the money pitch and suddenly i found myself delighted to get that pithy peach - adam was still on the ground, connected to us w/ a 70 - geoff came up on the new anchor as i launched into the incredible start that is jensen's 3rd pitch

 

just starting the 11a crack on a blind placement

 

time went by - jim and bill arrived below - lichen populated my eye-balls - the laughable # of 3s, 4s, n' 5s i had got whittled away and then i was there - bryan followed, panting in the odd hibernal-heat as he made the pillar-top - he rested and sorted as geoff followed then was off lickety-split, ending up aiding plenty of the pitch

 

mike jugged up in a jiffy n' got a spiffy pano

 

 

need to put a decent anchor in the lower nothc of jensens as i was a wee bit unhappy in my pee-pee places to see what had been holding me from flying through the sky down to the sea - an ocean of ants, the fould reek of formic acid exploding on the scene - frogs creek n' croaking, the whole world in wonder at the folly of winter with her guard down, panties askew and napping

 

suddenly we were all at the railing w/ jim n' hogsheads of tourons trundlign up down and all around - butts n' beers n' bullshitting and a fine heady-brew of homo sapien comraderie - the parking lot in the dying lot - pbrs n' pleasant conversation as adam went down to fetch the what have yous, then we set our sights west and went back to being ordinary men

 

poor adam - he ripped 50 feet of poision oak cables out of lay lady lay and the vicinty w/ not even gloves on his hands - he'll be in intensive care till next christmas i fear

[YocumRidge]

Nice work, boyz.

 

I was supposed to come out to Beaconland today too but sick as a puppy, ended up vomiting all weekend long.