Pearly Gates - Leavenworth

[ericb]

Thinking about a hookey day in the next couple weeks, and wanting sharpen the skilz after a long climbing reprieve. From what I've heard/read, PG looks like a good place to get in a lot of mods without a lot of travel. Thinking (hoping) I'm good for 5.8, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to be too chicken to lead the 5.9s, but curious if there are some that can be toproped? Also are the ratings pretty accurate?

[Jopa]

Ratings seem pretty fair at PG, if not a bit soft. Plenty of the 9's can be TR'd by climbing 5.8's. Cloud Nine has a 5.8 first pitch and a 5.9 second pitch, but only for one or two moves (don't miss this climb!). Celestial Groove is true 5.9 with a V1/2 boulder problem off the ground (it can also be TR'd by walking around the left side of the crag). Check out Loaves of Fun for another fantastic 5.8. There is a cool 5.8 crack to the right of Cloud Nine called No Room for Squares and a 5.9 to the right of that called Lost Souls that can be TR'd by leading NRFS (the crux is short, though, so it would make a good 5.9 lead).

 

This is one of those crags where you can get in a ton of laps. The granite there makes me want to quit grad school and become a dirtbag.

[ericb]

Thanks for the beta....is finding it pretty straightforward....I've got Kramar's approach description

[fenderfour]

Very easy to find. Cross the irrigation channel and look for a trail on the right.

 

It was shady and fun last saturday. We had it all to ourselves until around noon.

[rob]

yes, finding it is easy -- it's visible from the parking lot and from the hike. Bring water.

 

Definitely check out Loaves of Fun and No Room For Squares for two good .8s

[sprocket]

Lost souls was one of my first 5.9 leads, short crux but attention getting on lead. Very fun and protects really well.

 

There are some fun bolted slab routes on the right side crag near Loaves of Fun. The Dog Ate My Top 5.7, The Scene is Clean 5.8 and the upper pitch of Milky Way 5.9 (easier than it looks).

 

Once you cross the irrigation canal, just find the trai and then find your way across teh creek and pick up the trail on the other side. It's pretty obvious.

 

If you have time at the end of the day there are two 5.8+ ptiches really close to the road that are worth trying, Dogleg Crack and Classic Crack. Both are pretty physical but protect very well and can be toproped.

[smithisheaven]

You will have to do Viens of Glory if 10b is ok for you. Great fun climb and cool balancy start. Its bolted. Let me know how you cleared the roof/overhng section near the top. haha