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Posted (edited)

So I took a slip bouldering a few months ago and fell maybe a foot onto my outstretched arm, which for some reason refused to let go of the hold. Anyhoo, since then, my shoulder has been hurting real bad. I slacked off on the climbing, sticking mainly to 5.6ish and easier stuff - stuff where I have movement options to compensate.

 

My MRI results came back today and the doc says it's a "partial tear in the rotator cuff."

 

My question is, what should I expect as far climbing over the next several months? Is it safe to continue with the easy stuff while going through therapy? How long does healing noramlly take?

 

If it's surgery, I'd imagine all climbing would be out but for how long?

 

Not looking for legally binding advice just other peoples experiences so I can form an idea of exactly how suck this is.

 

Anyone been through this here?

Edited by spotly
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Posted

what's the doc say, or does he/she not know enough about climbing mechanics to give an opinion. They are the person with the most knowledge of the extent of your injury.

 

 

Posted

I agree find out what the Doc thinks. I have not been around climbing long enough to deal with many injuries(mine or Friends').But I played baseball for most my life and in my experience there, with pitchers mostly, is that you need about 2-4 weeks of almost no activity(except stretching)Before you can start rehabilitation. If its not serious enough for surgery, Possibly your sporatic climbing is what is keeping it from healing properly.

Posted

I agree find out what the Doc thinks. I have not been around climbing long enough to deal with many injuries(mine or Friends').But I played baseball for most my life and in my experience there, with pitchers mostly, is that you need about 2-4 weeks of almost no activity(except stretching)Before you can start rehabilitation. If its not serious enough for surgery, Possibly your sporatic climbing is what is keeping it from healing properly.

Posted

Yeah, I'll see what he says on Tuesday. You know how they are though - non commital, "it all depends." Which of course, you can't blame them.

 

I just wanted to see what other climbers experiences have been with this type of injury. Realizing of course that it's all relative.

Posted

Depends on the degree of tear, a partial tear can usually be rehabilitated w/o surgery. It's going to take a big commitment on you to go do PT, do your stretched and exercises religiously, and NOT push it climbing.

 

It's going to take a few months...sorry.

Posted

I did the same thing back in 2005. Was out completely for about 10 months of total non shoulder activities. Even skiing put a strain on the area. Have a chiro/sports med doc in the area who after 4 visits put me back together. I was amazed how fast he helped me. Got to rest the area for awhile. Then easy rehab. I would quit the climbing for a little bit.

Look at it this way. Is climbing 5.6 easy stuff just to get your fix worth not climbing at all in the future. Beleive me I had the burn to climb so bad, my mood was grim for awhile. But there will be a future if you act appropriately now.

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