Greg_W Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I recently bought some old-style tech Friends off of a guy who said he last climbed in the early 90's. The cams look in great shape, not a lot of scratches, slings look like their in good shape, etc. A friend recently raised the question about the reliability of old nylon even if it has been in the closet. The sewn slings do not display ANY dirt, stains, fading, etc. Does nylon break down regardless of where it is stored (this was in a closet)? Greg W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glacier_dup1 Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I believe nylon does break down over time, even when in storage - I remember reading a rope articel some time back where 10-year-old unused ropes that had been stored in a closet broke onthe first UIAA drop test - I think the Fish.com website may have some info on nylon aging. Regardless, it is recommended that slings be replaced every few years, and spending $3-4 apiece to have the cams re-slung by Yates or Fish is cheap peace of mind, especially with the used gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted October 16, 2002 Author Share Posted October 16, 2002 Okay, next question: Would you send them back to have sewn slings put on or would you tie your own? Webbing or cordage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I would think it worthwhile to have them sewn. Sewn slings will be both stronger and have a slimmer profile which may be important in irregular cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 Metolius will sling cams other than their own for a nominal fee...I think it was around 4 bucks or so, plus return shipping...They'll also poke around and inspect the cams if they are metolius cams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 over time nylon becomes brittle which means the sling material loses its elasticity (studies cannot detect any other effect that can be imparted to aging per se). I don't really believe the elastic properties of the slings on your friends is absolutely critical considering the rope is the first and most important shock absorber in the system, yet for peace of mind (we all know how important it is when leading) and the very occasional oddball situation where added elasticity is critical, I'd re-sling the cams with new material. [ 10-16-2002, 10:09 PM: Message edited by: j_b ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 what makes nylon age? if not UV related, is it O2 that does that damage? jsut curious as to what causes such a short lifetime on such a strong product... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 I think that both oxydation and hydrolysis (absorption of water) play a role in break down of polymers, albeit very slowly in typical storage conditions (no uv, little moisture, normal steady temp). Also nylon is cooled from a melt and therefore must have an amorphous component which may not be stable in the long term. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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