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Posted

A weak point in the design of many gaitors is the cord that runs under the sole of your boot. While some models have a beefy (and heavy) strap, some have just a nylon cord. After any amount of rough terrain, the nylon cord gets frayed and cut. As it’s on the bottom of your boot, it’s hard to notice when it’s almost cut through

 

Here’s an easy modification that will eliminate this hassle. Head to the hardware store, and buy 3 feet of 1/16 inch cable from the bulk spools and 4 1/16” aluminum sleeves. (Note: This size cable and sleeves are also the key gear you need to make a hanging stove.) With wire cutters and a bit of patience, you replace the cord with a looped wire. Clamp the aluminum sleeves onto the wire with pliers. Note that this is non-adjustable, so size it to the shoes you’ll use most often with the gaitors.

 

Original Post with photo

 

Mazamas Tip of the Week Index

 

 

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Posted

How about some of that kevlar cord - lighter, more flexy, and adjustable... I wonder how it would hold up???

 

Using pliers on swages is ugly, :( get your local cam trigger fixing bum to do you up right.

 

Posted

Hmm, Kevlar cord. In'string idea. I might have to try that.

 

I always wear my gaiters under my pants.

 

And, I always wear shorty gaiters. Yep, all the time, even winter climbs. It may sound whacky, but I never get excess snow down the boots and they work great for me. Before anyone slams this idea, give it a try on a climb/hike you'd normally wear knee high gaiters on and how the shorties work.

Posted

An alternative to the pliers bit is to take a visit to your local Home Depot (or some other hardware stores) with everything measured out. They often have a big swager/cutter in the cable isle you can just borrow for your two crimps.

Posted

Tacoma Screw has a swaging tool right there you can use in the store as well. Pliers don't really work. Copper swages are a million times easier to deal with than aluminum ones too. You shouldn't bother trying to cut aircraft cable with anything but a tool made to cut wire rope either. I forget what the tool is called, but that's what it's made for. Just bring your gaiters to Tacoma Screw, use their tools, and pay maybe a couple of bucks max for materials. Replacing the string with wire rope is a good idea, but use the right tools for a better quality fix, less headache, and less wasted materials.

 

If you make nice swages, the end of the wire rope will end up just inside the swage (do two) so you don't have frayed wire rope to cut your hands or your gear.

Posted
How about some of that kevlar cord - lighter, more flexy, and adjustable... I wonder how it would hold up???

 

Using pliers on swages is ugly, :( get your local cam trigger fixing bum to do you up right.

 

I've done this for the past few months with my REI Mistral Gaters. 4mm kevlar. It's fat cause it's what I had on hand. While it's way more durable than cord, it still wears out suprisingly fast. I'm using it with approach shoes where theres' no gap in the sole for it to fit in and stay outta the way, so with every step it's being ground up. That grinding motion (and walking through acid) is the worst possible thing for kevlar. I'm anxious to try the wire mod, but concerned it will cut into the shoe soles like a cheese slicer...

Posted

Not Kevlar but, swing in to your local yacht rigger or boat supply. You can get spectra with individual strands urethane coated. It goes under the name Amsteel, Amsteel blue, or Spectron 12. The plane grey stuff is all you need the others are extra strength versions. It is available in 1mm (3/64") and takes knots quite well.

Posted
I'm anxious to try the wire mod, but concerned it will cut into the shoe soles like a cheese slicer...

 

Wire rope that thin may very well cheese slice footwear. The Spectra idea sounds like a better thing to try first.

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