The Path 5.14 R

[G-spotter]

fH1N1c8fbeQ

[Winter]

Alien Cams - Nothing works better - as long as you don't take a huge whipper on them.

[G-spotter]

Alien and Metolius.

 

The footage was taken by Cory Richards and the low res version makes it fuzzy and soft, but I think it's easy to tell what's going on regardless, especially when I bail and retreat from the crux. Tail between legs. Sometimes I would get all psyched up and then look and realize just how far away the hold really was and all my spirit would crumble, I would cowardly shrink back to safety and slump onto the security of that tiny black Alien. Which for the record was the only peice of gear that didn't break when i fell on it, in fact I have fallen on that peice about 25 times over the last year and a half. I broke 2 grey metolius 00's and one purple 0. They didn't snap completely, but I needed a freaking hammer and a nut tool to get them out, and once they were out, they were GARBAGE. Nothing but cheap mangled metal and the smell of wasted money.

 

Please for the sake of god, (in the rain and all) please stop making cams lighter and softer, the ones Metolius made before were so rad, durable and easy to handle, these new ones annoy me. I can understand that they are good for the mountains and fast and light and big walls and stuff, but at least offer the other ones for us Granite Cragging types who actually take falls. What's wrong with offering two different purpose cams, market the light and cheap ones that break for the big terrain stuff and then offer some nice, durable, well handling, well crafted ones for everyone else. Simple.

[RuMR]

my 15 year old TCU's are in great shape and i whip on them all of the time...absolutely stout!!

 

I don't have any of the new DAT ones, so i don't know how they'll hold up, but i sure hope they haven't given up the Metolius ruggedness in favor of saving an oz or two...

[fenderfour]

I too am on a path to 5.14r. It is very long and will never be fully travelled.

[G-spotter]

i had a pre-cam stop yellow metolius that i broke a couple years ago by taking a not very big whip onto it. it didn't fail until fern was lowering me off on it though!

[catbirdseat]

I'm going to get me some of those "mirco" cams.

[matt_m]

anyone catch on his blog Trotter made a stop at index? Got on City Park and Amandala - Did he send? Did say he liked it.

 

Any world class project hidden away in index still?

[G-spotter]

He sais he did Amandla but did not redpoint City Park.

[markd]

He sais he did Amandla but did not redpoint City Park.

 

did you read this somewhere?

[G-spotter]

Ya, it's on the same blog Matt M is referring to.

[mythosgrl]

Sonnie Trotter and the Quebec 5.14 crack ace "Peewee" both stopped by Index recently and both said the jams and fingerlocks on City Park were too painful to try and lead it.