New to Oregon, ready for some ICE!

[toddpi314]

So, after living in texas for 24 years, i am making the big move to the cascades.

 

I have been up and down Hood 3 times solo, twice in awful, awful weather; of course, i have had to fly 2000 miles to get there.

 

I have noticed that mountaineering focuses more on endurance than technique, and am looking to get into ice climbing in the Oregon area.

 

 

Anyone game for teaching a newbie? (yes, i can supply my own gear and possibly red bull for the team)

[AcuDoc]

I live in Portland and I am looking for someone to help get me started with mountaineering. Since I am a total newb, I can't help ya with learning ice....BUT I would love to learn with you.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Unfortunately easy access to fun ice routes is ellusive in Oregon. I'm assuming you've heard/read the gorge stories at odd times over the winter. Some years it forms up really nice for brief windows, other years not at all.

Do a seach here of "gorge ice" or maybe google "columbia gorge ice"..... that's bound to return some hits.

 

Pretty much the only other ice is high up on some committing climbs or playing around in spots like the Elliot glacier on hood.

 

The most reliable source for ice around here is to head north young man.

Pick up this excellent book - http://www.amazon.com/Washington-Ice-Climbing-Jason-Martin/dp/0898869463/ref=sr_1_1/103-7586889-4319065?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1187794477&sr=1-1

and also look into all the great ice up in Canada.

 

[Alex]

If you are moving to Oregon and expect to go ice climbing, I would like to set your expectations very low. There is little ice climbing in Oregon in a normal year, outside of Serac'ing on the N Side of Hood. You will have to drive quite a bit.

 

That said, if you don't mind driving then you are within easy day's drive of the Canadian Rockies and other destinations for longer trips, and some ice climbing in Washington for weekends.

 

PS: thanks for the plug Kevin!

Edited August 22, 2007 by Alex

[John Frieh]

- If you're looking for PDX based ice partners plan on attending the PDX ice festival... we're in the process of confirming a date... once we lock it in I'll get the word out... we had over 100 people attend last year and almost all of them had a story similar to you… interested in learning more about ice… should be a great venue to meet potential partners as well as try out new ice gear

 

- don’t believe all “no ice in OR” talk… if genuinely, passionately pursue ice you will meet the right people and find out quickly where you can climb ice in oregon. M7-M8, multipitch wi5… all in OR (and not in the gorge)…

 

- buy Alex's book

[Yeman]

Wow, nice to hear about this "ice festival"! I am pretty psyched. I moved to PDX in spring and all I heard is this "no ice in OR" talk and was ready to store my tools in the bedroom to use as back scratchers.

Thanks for the information John! You saved a soul.

Please let the word out and make it LOUD when the fest is coming!