5.10 Ascents

[IceScrewed]

My Kaukulators are shot and I need to buy a new pair of shoes--fast. I'm heading out to do the Casual Route on the Diamond and typically climb 5.8-5.10 grade III and IVs. My foot is wide. The Ascent looks appealing. Anybody with experience with these? Any alternative favorites?

My feet and I thank you.

[Figger_Eight]

Boreals fit my wide feet pretty good. IMHO: for long routes board lasted is the way to go. Check out the Aces.

[Matt_Anderson]

I believe in finding a company that makes shoes that fit your feet and sticking with them. For me its sportiva - I started with the kaukulators and then got a pair of synchro's. I climbed for a lot of years in them (and did the casual route in them . . .). I think that the Focus has replaced the synchro for the lots of support, good edging/crack/all day shoe. Check those out.

 

As the cracks that I like have gotten thinner, I've switched to Miura's and LOVE THEM. They don't need to be sized as aggressively to climb well and have way more sensitivity than the synchros. Of course, they also have less support (adequate, but still more pain in foot jamming fist cracks). Just the same, the craftsmanship of the liners makes them waaaay comfy for everthing else. I wear them for everyhing except gym climbing these days - cragging, all day climbs, steep stuff, friction, whatever. Give 'em a try.

 

If youre committed to checking out 5.10, every pair of 5.10 i've owned stretched alot and wore out early.

 

Re: the ace, shoes have come a long way since those were first developed. Sure, you'll never feel pain in a crack in them, but then again you also won't feel anything else. And they edge like crap. (just my humble opinion . . . they still have the coolest add ever - Croft on the the rostrum, one ace in the crack, one ace hanging out, one hand jamming, one hand chocking, and no rope Oh my . . .)

 

matt

[Rainier_Wolfscastle]

I have a pair and like them alot. I also have wide feet, and 5.10 ascents fit well in the toes and heel. I found sportiva to be loose in the heel with a tight fit in the toes. Ascents fit about the same as moccasyms (my personal favorite). The only bad thing about the ascents is the heel hooking ability. The funky padded design in the back doesn't hook that well in my opinion. Otherwise, they are great all around shoe. FYI:, some 5.10's shoe shapes are totally diffent, I bought a pair of 5.10 "rock socks" on ebay in my usual 5.10 size and couldn't even get them on. They were subtaintly narrower.

[IceScrewed]

Thanks for the input. I should mention that I haven't considered Aces (although my gym shoe is a Boreal velcro shoe that I really like) because I once had a pair and the heel cup ripped apart my feet and cut short a trip to the Valley. I'll definitely check out the Sportiva Focus too.

[erik]

ice,

 

the one thing that gets me about the ascents other then 5.10's lack of durability is that the velcro makes it hard to jam in cracks and the shape of the toe also makes thin cracks more of a chore....plus it is fairly soft for your all day deals.

 

i climb in:

mocasyms- mostly

mythos- we are crankin now

muiras- bolts

running shoes- improves foot work

[hollyclimber]

Ha ha...not surprising that Erik lists 4 kinds of shoes he climbs in...

He also brings on a short (7 day) roadtrip_

1 pair beefy hiking boots

1 pair other boots

1 pair teva flipflops

1 pair tevatype sandals

1 pair hippie sandals

1 pair approach shoes

 

in addition to the other shoes listed above.

 

I climb cracks in my miuras. Longer days, bigger Miuras, sport climbing smaller miuras. I think I have 4 pairs.

[Dru]

erikmelda marcos

[erik]

easy there holly!!

 

anyone ele notice hollyclimbers intials are the same as that alpine food everyone loves!! H.C.

 

[mtnrgr]

I love my new 5.10 Heucos (sp). I have big feet (12-13 normal shoes) with the same length big and 2nd toe. The Heuco are as comfortable as sneakers. There is no pain when jamming in cracks, even with my large fat ass (230 lbs). The cushy heal and dot traction provide bone friendly falls, good walk-offs, and surprisingly great hold on heel hooks. You can't beat C4 rubber either.

 

bitches: At the flex point of the toe, the rand is seperating. I re-learned today it is not a bouldering shoe, but than agian I'm fat, big, and a lousy boulderer.

[Yos]

I had the Huecos until they wore through and switched to the Ascents. Use 'em on everything. Never had a problem with the velcro in cracks. This place is having a special if you're interested:

 

http://www.rockrun.com/

sid=4f15069d26d8c0f82b1978ca53fddb4a

[cappellini]

don't be so complex.....if boreals fit buy boreals...i also have flintstone feet and boreals fit them like no other.....the best ones for all around crack climbing, particularly in the mountains are lasers...as long as you buy them the same size as your sneakers they are quite comfortable...if you have poor technique stick to board lasted shoes...buy balets, they are made by boreal....kaukulators are trash....they climb well but disintegrate if you add a little crack..i have a pair and they are covered with leather patches.....ripped out before i wore off the first sole........