[TR] Mt. Rainier - DC- "ish" route 7/30/2007

[fredrogers]

Trip: Mt. Rainier - DC- "ish" route

 

Date: 7/30/2007

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the DC variation with a few friends yesterday from Ingrahm flats. Following other posts on this board, the Cleaver itself is "closed" for the season due to significant crevasses and the route now drops below the cleaver proper before threading its way over to the Emmons shoulder and then back to the Columbia Crest rim.

 

While much longer, the variation is more interesting and includes a small 15' step of ice to climb- RMI has fixed a line with several pickets and screws here (and kicked in monster steps), although it may be worth checking it first/being prepared to deal with it yourself, as well as a line over an interesting snow bridge at approximately 12,000 ft. The traverse from above the cleaver over to the Emmons shoulder is well-wanded and packed in, but does go above some serious monster crevasses- not a place to fall. Do be careful about which "wanded" route to follow as there are a number of variations that no longer go that have not been cleaned up by the guide services- if you are traversing towards the Emmons, you are on the route. We took 10 hours RT from Ingrahm Flats, leaving at 12AM, slowed a bit on the descent by a partner who was not feeling well.

 

From the parade of VERY tired looking climbers coming past our tent for 2 days (some returning as late as 4PM) it is taking people a lot longer than they expected it is more physically demandind than the DC "normale". We spoke with a climbing ranger team who stopped by to give us a route update and they said that the fixed lines were huge bottlenecks on Saturday night/Sunday day (both up and down), so if you are planning to go this weekend, expect it and make plans accordingly. I suggest overnighting at Ingrahm Flats vs. Muir to get a jump start on everyone climbing from there and leave earlier than 1 or 2. We were able to avoid getting stuck behind other parties both on the way up and down- others were not so fortunate.

 

It was very hot during the day and sounds like it may be that way for a while, so the route may change from day to day- once the ice step and the snow bridge with the fixed line open up/melt out some more it may get much more interesting.

 

I'll try and post some pics later when I get them from my partners.

 

Approach Notes:

Took 3 days for the trip with the first night at Moon Rocks (9,500), then up to Ingrahm Flats (11,00), then out. Moon Rocks was deserted except for us and was much more pleasant than Camp Muir.

 

[Big_Wave_Dave]

I stole this excellent pic of Rainier from the TR on Little Tahoma and drew in (as best as I can tell) the wanded DC variation. We summitted on Sunday via this route, and although the route was fairly solid in the morning, walking under the seracs and over some of the bridges in the afternoon got pretty nervy.

 

We dubbed the first area with the fixed line the Hillary step for drama enhancement. The other crossings we dubbed just plain sucky. I'd agree that this is a much longer variation than the DC.

 

 

 

Little Tahoma at dawn:

 

Rounding the "soft bridge" at 12,500:

 

 

[Bug]

Yikes! That area above the cleaver does look like chop.

[Mike_Gauthier]

Nice addition Big Wave Dave. Can I use that image with your lines on the blog?

 

Hey Fred, I wouldn't say the DC is "closed". But yes, it's not a good option now... It's entirely possible that the guides will figure a way across that crevasse network later this season. Though that may seem unlikely, crevasses sometimes cave in and create new bridges...

 

Regardless, the new variation will probably work for the next few weeks. Though longer, I like it b/c it avoids the rocky cleaver.

[Big_Wave_Dave]

Go ahead on 'er, Mike. I wish I'd gotten some pics of the bridge areas but you went by us so fast on the descent the wind tore the camera right out of my hands.

 

All things considered the variation is a really a pretty route right now.

[Mike_Gauthier]

...you went by us so fast on the descent the wind tore the camera right out of my hands.

 

One moves a lot faster when using the dark side of the force.

[To_The_Top]

All things considered the variation is a really a pretty route right now.

 

The route has gone that way a few years back, as I recall. Like to avoid the cleaver.