Jeff Lougee Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 A friend and I were thinking of climbing the Northeast Buttress on Sleese sometime the third week of August. We've heard that a hanging glacier gaurding the traverse onto the route can be an issue, but melts out in some seasons. I was wondering if anyone has any beta on the currrent conditions of the route, especially the status of the glacier, but any other info. would be welcome too! Thanks, Jeff Lougee Jackson, New Hampshire Quote
G-spotter Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 A friend and I were thinking of climbing the Northeast Buttress on Sleese sometime the third week of August. We've heard that a hanging glacier gaurding the traverse onto the route can be an issue, but melts out in some seasons. I was wondering if anyone has any beta on the currrent conditions of the route, especially the status of the glacier, but any other info. would be welcome too! Thanks, Jeff Lougee Jackson, New Hampshire Um there is no such mountain as 'Sleese' Quote
goatboy Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 Not sure about current conditions, but I imagine you saw this thread already... LINK' Quote
jmace Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 Slesse Glacier has not slid, I would gamble it wont this year, thats ok, its been crappy weather here for all of June and now looking like the last half of July. 3rd week of August is a great time frame to shoot for and if the glacier crossing is not to your liking then there are many routes and mountains off the same road or nearby to aim for E ridges of Rexford, the Nesakwatch spires,the North Rib of Slesse. You could actually climb the E ridges of Rexford carry over then bivy below the spires and climb to your hearts content then come down to your vehicle right past the trail head to slesse..a worthy alternative! With the recent Slesse accident you may want to consider bringing a throw away screw or two "just in case" then toss it once across to minimize weight cheers Have Fun it should be a worthy trip up here Quote
goatboy Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 With the recent Slesse accident you may want to consider bringing a throw away screw or two "just in case" then toss it once across to minimize weight Is this from the Mark Twight school of climbing ethics? Carry gear 'til you need it then abandon it once its purpose is served? Are you being facetious or are you serious? Quote
jmace Posted July 18, 2007 Posted July 18, 2007 Being serious...I have old screws, found screws..id just tossem when I was done on the glacier portion.. Quote
Jeff Lougee Posted July 18, 2007 Author Posted July 18, 2007 Thanks for the replies, suggestions, and spell-check feature. Isn't Sleese up there in Canadia? Cheers, Jeff Quote
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