Anyone been up the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face?

[gt5816v]

So I was going to climb it Sunday morning but after peering off of the diving board at last light on Saturday I was pretty sure most of the bolt hangers were missing on the bolt ladder. Could've been the poor lighting but I did see a few hangers... I talked to one of guys at Red Point first thing Sunday and he said the 2nd bolt was chopped for sure but that's all he knew. Anyone got any beta on this?

 

THanks!

[Cobra_Commander]

chopping bolts at smith = arranging the deck chairs on the titanic

[high_on_rock]

So .... We need a long stick clip to climb it now?

 

Seriously, and assuming that this is not a troll, it would be a shame to a beautiful chunk of rock if they start the chop/rebolt wars. I think more people get a kick out of watching climbers on that route, than we climbers get out of doing the route.

[scheissami]

Climbed it via the West Face variation about a month ago and no problems with the bolt ladder then....not sure if this helps.

[cynicalwoodsman]

The route is fine.

do it.

The 140' free rap off the nose is a blast!

 

[gt5816v]

I'll give her a go next time I'm out there then. Thanks!

[ivan]

and if ye ain't already heard, french-freeing the ladder is much faster than doing the old-school aid-thing

[iain]

especially if you wear jeans, converse allstars and a flannel shirt and start yelling down at your partner that you're out of snaplinks as you thrutch up to the next bolt.

 

wait for a nice crowd to gather at the diving board.

[ivan]

especially if you wear jeans, converse allstars and a flannel shirt and start yelling down at your partner that you're out of snaplinks as you thrutch up to the next bolt.

 

wait for a nice crowd to gather at the diving board.

whoa! sounds kinda like the first person i ever did the monkey with! he insisted on leading the ladder himself - 2 hours and 3 rain-squalls later he was done...don't think i've ever seen a far-off sun-ray and wished so hard ever before.