stinkyclimber Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 What you did in this video was wrong. You must never trundle unless you can watch that big bad bitch bounce down and destroy stuff every meter it falls, otherwise it is a waste of gravity. I hope you learned your lesson and next time only post videos of the full trundle, not just the launch. I feel so unfulfilled. Quote
Dane Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 "it is not your responablity as a climbing partner to judge weather she really does know what she says she knows. all you can do is trust that your climbing partner" Just a thought but we should always be responsible for our partners. That is why we call it a partnership. Rope "teams" should be making joint decisions. If not the skill level of the partnership is likely pretty one sided. If you don't feel up to the problem and can't get get up and down it at your skill level then you might as well be guided. Nothing wrong with that unless all of a sudden you need to have the skills and ability to get up or down the route without your more experienced friend. We all have done it but it might just save your ass to recognize the fact if you aren't jointly making decisions. Also never wrong to say, "Hey, you might want to save this one for later." Better to do that before the first fall than after you need a rescue. Lately I have climbed with a bunch of "internet" partners. And I've seen some really sketchy leads because of it. Quote
mattp Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 Dane, I don't disagree with most of what you posted except for the last line: Lately I have climbed with a bunch of "internet" partners. And I've seen some really sketchy leads because of it. I've climbed with "pick up" partners all over the world and here on cc.com. I have not found a concentration of "bad" partners on the Internet. In fact, I have found ALL (100%) of my partners gained on the Internet to be AT LEAST as competent as they advertised before we actually met. Maybe I'm lucky, but I have done pretty good with pick up partners all over the world and better than "pretty good" on the Internet. Quote
goatboy Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 Hey Gene and company, Thanks for the cautionary post -- I could have been more clear -- my intent is the same as yours, to point out to people better options than the scary boulder you are warning about. The anchor I built is about 50 feet or more ABOVE the scary, poorly-anchored one you referred to -- well past the dead tree, as my original post says. I am glad that this topic is getting some attention, because I agree that the dead tree, and the poorly anchored boulders near it, are not the best choices. Breaking the route into 5 pitches, as my post states, gives you some much better options for final anchors at the top. Hopefully, people will continue to enjoy this great route and manage it safely and appropriately for themselves, and for other parties in the vicinity. - GB If you are talking of the huge boulder at the top of the climb, then you should know (and every newbie reading this) is that it is NOT well anchored. It is sitting on a sloping slab with sand between the boulder and the slab. Got to be the worst boulder to make your anchor on. It should have a "do not use this boulder or die" sign on it. yeah it was a very good day in the icicle. Nice temps and pretty trees. Quote
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