OrygunJim Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Trip: Tatoosh - Unicorn/Castle Date: 6/26/2007 Trip Report: With a few days off and a clear weather window (who didn't get some the last few days, yeah?!) I headed for the Tatoosh as the snow appeared to be holding. Coming from Portland required a couple of nights stay so I set up camp at Snow Lake, one of the shortest hikes with the biggest payoffs I think. The 26th I set off for Unicorn, a great objective for the novice solo climber. It was neat to be camped below it and gaze at it thoroughly the evening before. After crossing the snow covered talus above the lake I reached the lowest gully. This gully leads to the snowfield above where ample skiing opportunities abound, a great looking bowl. After tromping the snowfield I reached the second, steeper gully. The coverage is a little more narrow here, but ample for kicking steps. The moat at the saddle is an easy step-across. I ascended the north facing slope to the southeast side of the ridge. From there I traversed north to the horn o' the 'corn, an exciting portion of the climb. From there I took one of the fourth class options on the southeast side to the top. No, I didn't use any of that gear...it's training weight. Left camp at 7:00, on the summit at 10:00. Traversed to Boundary and soaked in some more views of Goats, Adams, Hood, Helens. Descended slush via the same route. The next day (27th) I hiked the same start gully, but angled sharp right at the snowfield (pictured below) toward Foss(?) Peak. Much further north than the "usual" saddle. There was a very small (6' wide) notch in which to pass that saved a considerable amount of time in 'shwacking on the west side of the ridge. Castle from the ridge. This experience was a real lesson for me. With only goat trail and snow to follow, I wound up at many dead ends, frustrated and covered in sap. I have come to understand this is often what it means to be a climber in the Cascades. Reaching Castle was a highlight as I was getting tuckered from the tromping. Again, I opted for the fourth class and topped out around 10:00 with fantastic views of Rainier. I descended to the original snowfield and gully and was packing up camp by 14:00, a very happy boy. Gear Notes: Ax,'pons (rarely used), 60m for rappels. Approach Notes: As easy as it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Cool pics and TR. Does anyone know..... I have always thought that the basin where the first picture with the tent is would have some sweet water ice lines in the winter. As you head toward Unicorn around the lake on the right their are a lot of cliffs that have a lot of water spurting over them. It is at a fairly high elevation and due to the basin and aspect, gets very little sun. It looks like you could go in for a day in say February and tick a bunch of sweet water ice routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_Gauthier Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Does anyone know..... I have always thought that the basin where the first picture with the tent is would have some sweet water ice lines in the winter. As you head toward Unicorn around the lake on the right their are a lot of cliffs that have a lot of water spurting over them. It is at a fairly high elevation and due to the basin and aspect, gets very little sun. It looks like you could go in for a day in say February and tick a bunch of sweet water ice routes? Those slopes can have some avalanche issues when the snow is deep (possible in Feb). But in November, when it can also get quite cold, but the access is EASY (b/c the road is still open) those falls will freeze up, and they make for nice lines. Good eye... and nice TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Thanks for the beta. I'm going in some November just before the road closes. If any or you cc'ers have an old copy of that infamous paperback MRNP water ice guide from the 70's, i'd love to take a peak at it some pub club -Raindawg? Off topic, but has anyone ever skiied from Unicorn all the way to Packwood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Nice report, thanks! Wish I got out this week, but I've been working for the man, making up for my recent midweek hookie sessions. Oh well, the weekend is almost here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmax Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 How much snow is left on the trail to the lake? I was thinking about taking my mom for a hike up here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrygunJim Posted June 30, 2007 Author Share Posted June 30, 2007 (edited) It's totally mom-friendly. I saw several on the hike back to the parking lot as well as small children. Only a few 3-8' patches of snow along the trail. Edited June 30, 2007 by OrygunJim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 Any wildflowers out yet? That Snow Lakes area can sport some nice flora... I'm guessing it's still a little early for that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrygunJim Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 avalanche lillies were busting out everywhere. Other than that very few patches of meadow/flowers were present. I gotta tell you goatboy, I referenced your TR from a few years ago to plan my trip. It built some good stoke and got me out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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