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Posted (edited)

Went up to the ice cliff this weekend, which made for a difficult day out for me. After believing we had finished the route and only the snow couloir left to climb; a schrund appeared. The group in front of us must have done some thing amazing; climbing with out any protection over the one connecting hunk of snow, which I would not describe as a snow bridge.

 

To the climbers right, impossible (for me) a bit of a mix climb, but the snow was to soft for my axe and the rock seemed too difficult to protect.

 

Climbers right was icy rock. I did see a peace of gear hanging up about 25 feet, which I am guessing someone left at some point. The group in front must have made it though a very narrow steep bridge, which somewhat laid back, and unable to hold ice screws or other protection.

 

How have people navigated that section in the past? I may go back this year before I leave WA, maybe. Do many people climb the route in July? Any ideas for my next WA alpine ice climb?

 

Oh… We found a blue soft shell jacket on the way back. Send a pm and describe.

 

And you will find 4 Russian ice screws at different points from our return trip. They should be good if you want to keep them or send them back to me.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Edited by minddoc
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Posted

ckouba and i climbed it wednesday of last week. we passed the schrund on the left side. it was unprotectable, short of burying a picket about 10' below the crux moves.

 

ckouba leading the step in question.

iceschrund.jpg

Posted (edited)

Thats what I was thinking. Ok, so I'm not going to try that way. other ideas? looks like its going to be a rock climb?

Edited by minddoc
Posted

Hi Alex

I am not sure I will be in WA next year. plus I think I might be happier turning around again then doing it when its easier, for now. :crazy:

 

minddoc, if you are looking for easier condish on this route you should probably hit it end of May/first week of June, next year.

 

 

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