minddoc

I went up last weekend. The glacier is mostly ice now. But it made for good climbing. Coming down was slow. Oh, we were the only two on the mountain. Very strange.

Good question. check out Http://www.shastaavalanche.org/reports.htm Most of the couloirs are turning to ice really fast. I would think Shasta is doing the same. It sounds like some of the guides are using ice screws for part of the climb. So, it might not be such an easy walk up any more. I'm heading there next weekend. It looks like there will be more melt off this week as 100's for temps in the valleys, and 90 up here in Truckee.

No one posted to my question so I had to go check it out for myself. I started with Dana Couloir this weekend and may try for North Peak next weekend. This week the climbing was fairly easy, the glacier ice is not in just yet; however, I would think within the next two weeks the rest of the snow will melt out and make for some good alpine ice climbing.

I'm glad I read this I still where jeans climbing. Its still ok to wear jeans skiing right? Nice TR! Way more then I have done this year.

Has anyone been on any of the California Couloirs lately (north peak, Dana)? I heard that they are already ice. I can't believe that but it was a strange and cold winter. Any info would be helpful, thanks a ton.

Thanks for all the info. I need to think about this.

I just had a phone interview for a job in Fairbanks...? Its a great job and good pay but...It seems far away from everything. Can some one give me some feedback on how the world of climbing/skiing is up there? I know Denali is a two hour drive but thats not a weekend trip. Thanks for the help.

Any ideas on climbers insurance, for injuries?

THANK YOU

Does anyone besides me get a little down about this? I’ve always been fairly liberal with environmental stuff, but at the same time tried not to worry to much as I can only do so much. But… “AFTER A VERY WARM TUESDAY NIGHT...EVEN WARMER CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED WEDNESDAY WITH HIGHS REACHING INTO 90S TO AROUND 100 ACROSS THE AREA. THIS 20 TO 30 DEGREES ABOVE NORMAL AND WILL CREATE VERY UNCOMFORTABLE CONDITIONS.” This seems a bit sad. It looks like even at the 10,000-foot mark, 60 degrees! Baker is melting! Any climatologist out there with any positive news about glacier melt off?

The Shrud on the Sherpa opening early sounds like it could be a good challenge for myself and partner. We can always turn around. However, we will never know unless we try. its going to be a bit cooler next week we will have to assess then. As far as advice given to me by the locals regarding my possible solo on the 4th, thank you. However, the question did not have much to do with the shrud or Mountaineer Creek? Other then I didn't want to do the approach to Sherpa GL solo, which does involve Mountaineer Creek. It sounds like you may have read my question incorrectly. If I can clarify anything for you please let me know. I always take local advice seriously and assess it for goals vs. danger, but it doesn't mean it will keep me from trying something and turning around. A open Shrud is not life threatening, but could be a fun day out. So if I decide to try this route I will keep my eyes open, thanks. dude ... you asked for advice ... so listen to what the locals are telling you ... it is common local knowledge that the shrud on the Sherpa opens pretty early ... if you are dead set on the Stuart Range plan on (be ready for) the Ice Cliff and the descent via Mountaineer Creek

Funny, funny, just for that I am going back to the Ice Cliff next week. Baker the next and the Wedge after that. Of course my partner will be coming along. Oh... I was looking at Mount Maude. That looked like a good climb as well. More Californians, No Doubt! Alpine ice season here, except for the volcanoes, is like February, March, and sometimes April. If there's good enough wedder, of course.

My partner is seeing Willie Nelson today . I wanted to stay near by and do a solo but instead I am working today in order to open up other opportunities for later. Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will keep the Sherpa GL as a opption for later this year when it is a bit cooler. Its like 100 some degrees today 4th of July on the East side .

NO!!! Don't say that this is Washington home of alpine ice and other fun stuff that doesn't involve rock.

Any ideas for a one-day solo with some Alpine ice out of Lake Stuart? I was thinking about going to the Sherpa glacier, but I don’t want to do that approach solo. I did Culchuck glacier the other day a good day hike not so much of a climb. Any ideas? Thank you

Note... a lot of people are reporting "I have had friends seriously injured" or "I have been seriously injured"

Thanks everyone bump

I have a few more questions. Please do not feel obligated to fill this out. It could be helpful to others and may be intersting to others on the board. Thanks for your help

Hi Alex I am not sure I will be in WA next year. plus I think I might be happier turning around again then doing it when its easier, for now.

Thats what I was thinking. Ok, so I'm not going to try that way. other ideas? looks like its going to be a rock climb?

Went up to the ice cliff this weekend, which made for a difficult day out for me. After believing we had finished the route and only the snow couloir left to climb; a schrund appeared. The group in front of us must have done some thing amazing; climbing with out any protection over the one connecting hunk of snow, which I would not describe as a snow bridge. To the climbers right, impossible (for me) a bit of a mix climb, but the snow was to soft for my axe and the rock seemed too difficult to protect. Climbers right was icy rock. I did see a peace of gear hanging up about 25 feet, which I am guessing someone left at some point. The group in front must have made it though a very narrow steep bridge, which somewhat laid back, and unable to hold ice screws or other protection. How have people navigated that section in the past? I may go back this year before I leave WA, maybe. Do many people climb the route in July? Any ideas for my next WA alpine ice climb? Oh… We found a blue soft shell jacket on the way back. Send a pm and describe. And you will find 4 Russian ice screws at different points from our return trip. They should be good if you want to keep them or send them back to me. Thanks for the info.

Coming off the ice cliff I found a blue soft shell. 6/25/07

This is a great point, your statement was actually my first idea for the research, the ability to have "moments of pure focus." Being in the moment is one of the most important theories being developed in psychology at this time, in my view. Kirk Streusel does a lot of work in this area. The theory suggest that we as humans spend much of our day thinking about the future or the past but not in the moment, being here right now. Climbing brings people to that place of being in the moment, out of necessity, so we don't die. One can't worry about other problems out side of the here and now when you are on an ice wall. This in turn makes us become very efficient at climbing. So the idea is taking that ability to be in the moment and bringing it to everyday life. Being in the moment with ones current thoughts, feelings, and body sensations helps to direct people for their next move. This is seen everyday as a climber. This maybe why we climb because climbing gives us an in the moment experience that does not happen for us out side of climbing. Can you imagine the ability people could have if they could take the in the moment experience that they have in climbing to everyday life? In climbing (and in theory) we look at our emotions and are able to observe them but continue with committed action in order to reach our value of the summit. We don't see our emotions as something to avoid in climbing, they give us signals to proceed with our values of climbing. In life it appears to be much easier to see emotions as something to avoid, and we can do that because we are not on a ice wall. Of course this idea has been around for hundreds of years in Asia, but I think it needs to be worked on from a perspective that can be used in our culture.

I said--Please seriously if you have anything to add please do. Don't tell me what to do.

Its not over yet, I am sure to do some more 3rd grade spelling soon. Truth be known I am one of the few Doctors of Psychology (PsyD) who have a learning disability (Dyslexia). More then that I use writing and reading technology to write because my writing skills are so poor. I was unable to use my writing technology on the poll or go back and edit. So yes I will spell like a 3rd grader at times. No big deal for me…but it can cause some difficulties for others…(G-spotter) Anyway, I’m off to the Ice cliff this weekend. It could make for a difficult weekend for me, pushing my level again.