[TR] Sherpa Peak - North Ridge 6/21/2007

[rob]

Trip: Sherpa Peak - North Ridge

 

Date: 6/21/2007

 

Trip Report:

Forecasting some illicit timeoff, I called up Tvashtarkatena for some midweek climbing goodness.

 

We agreed to meet at the Monroe P-R at 9 AM. Thankfully, I was able to catch my bus and arrive in Monroe in time to wait for Tvash, who lost his cell phone and ended up showing up around 10:45.

 

A quick jaunt over the pass, lunch and a quick gear sort saw us leaving the TH at 1:55 PM. After several questionable stream crossings and some schwacking, we arrived at Sherpa basin about 4 hours later.

 

We left camp about 5 AM the next morning to clear blue skies and hard snow. Instead of gaining the north ridge immediately, we decided to bypass several low-5th pitches by climbing a couloir that led us almost directly to the major notch on the ridge.

 

We simul-climbed about 2 rope lengths up some slabby rock to the top of the notch, where we swapped leads to the summit -- about 8 pitches from the top of the couloir.

 

We made a short rap SW off the summit, then downclimbed some loose gullies. Traversing to the col between Sherpa and Argonaut sounded like a drag, so we decided to downclimb a nearby steep (~40 degree) couloir that lead straight down to the basin.

 

A small storm had blown in during our descent, with a few snow flakes and a bit of wind. Arriving at camp, we decided to bivy for the night and hike out in the morning, rather than risk schwacking out in the dark.

 

Disappointed that I had not suffered any knee pain during the trip, I decided to take a short uncontrolled fall down an icy slope into some boulders ( ), but unfortunately I received only minor scrapes on my knuckles. I'll have to try harder next time.

 

Gear Notes:

60m single, medium alpine rack to 3''

axe, crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Brushy

[tvashtarkatena]

Pics, etc:

 

In the Northwest, the best thing about June is July. While the west side forecast vacillates, there is always the Icicle and its attendant summits, however. RobMcDan suggested that we row out of the doldrums via Sherpa’s North Ridge, so a bushwhacking we went. We did the climb in 8 pitches (including an initial simul pitch). There are several 5.8 moves sprinkled along what is a pretty fun mid fifth route. Rock is generally solid granite and the pro good, with the odd loose block, snow patch, and black lichen for fun. The trip as a whole includes a little bit of everything: a true Cascade experience.

 

 

Argonaut and Sherpa from the Stuart Lake Trail

 

 

The bush really isn’t that bad. The mosquitoes, however….

 

 

Rob in deep concentration on the approach.

 

 

 

The route from near our bivvy at 5600': Up the couloir right of the summit (to bypass the less aesthetic lower N ridge and get right to the good stuff), up the right skyline (the good stuff), down and across the opposite side, then down the couloir left of the summit

 

 

 

On top of the crux pitches

 

 

 

From the ‘summit’: Stuart in backround.

 

 

 

The true summit of Sherpa. 5.10c anyone?

 

 

The descent involves a single rope rap to a gulley on the SW face, then downclimbing the gulley to an obvious sandy bench, then traversing E to the notch above the descent couloir at 8000’. This couloir will probably contain continuous snow until mid July or so. The guidebook recommends traversing at 7800’ all the way to the Argonaut/Sherpa col. Fuck that.

 

 

Crotch shot: the descent couloir.

 

 

 

Oxides on granite: Sherpa’s NE basin.

 

 

You’ll curse yourself on the bushwhack in, then thank yourself on the bushwhack out. It’s a weird trip in that sense. Early July at the latest is recommended for this climb if the couloir routes are to be taken advantage of.

 

 

 

Edited June 24, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[Weekend_Climberz]

Good jorb Love the oxide pic