[TR] Index LTW - Narrow Arrow Overhang 6/9/2007

[Jeff_T]

Trip: Index LTW - Narrow Arrow Overhang

 

Date: 6/9/2007

 

Trip Report:

Steve and I headed out last Saturday to try something at Index that was a bit harder than City Park. Since the weather wasn't the greatest, we had the place to ourselves and ended up choosing Narrow Arrow Overhang (C2).

 

I lead the first pitch, which got off to a rather slow start. Getting up to the start of the crack was rather awkward in boots and a full aid rack. After managing to scrap my way up to the crack, I realized that this was definitely going to be more challenging than City Park. The crack took lots of nuts, but mostly really small ones. I found that the BD micronuts worked the best. I was very happy to place a bomber #1 Camalot in a horizontal crack higher up on the route. Much better than the tiny Alien I had to place in a pin scar with only half the lobes engaged! Needless to say I was quite happy to reach the belay and try out Steve's new belay seat (Thanks Steve!!!).

 

Steve took on the challenge of leading the roof on the second pitch after quickly cleaning the first pitch. We had practiced aiding the roof at Marymoor, but this still seemed pretty difficult. Steve made his way up, also having to make some difficult placements. He was able to make some free moves so that sped things up.

 

After I cleaned the second pitch, we stood at the second belay and decided to head down. The third pitch, which I believe is actually part of Narrow Arrow Direct, has a chimney that opens up pretty big. We weren't sure that we had the gear to aid it or the free climbing ability (or strength left!) to climb it, so we called it a day.

 

I was really happy with this climb and definitely recommend it. I think next time we'll try Ironhorse or Stern Farmer. Definitely need more practice before Town Crier.

 

Check out the pics at http://www.cascadesclimber.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=47

 

See all my pics at www.cascadesclimber.com

 

Jeff

 

Gear Notes:

Probably way more than we needed. Lots of nuts required.

 

Approach Notes:

Park the car and wake up people "camping" in parking lot. Walk across railroad tracks.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I was climbing next to you guys on city park. Nice talking with you and nice work on the climb.

[spiderman]

Nice work Jeff. You are definetly ready for Town Crier or Green Dragon. I haven't done the Narrrow Arrow, but have looked at it from the ground, and it looks long and sustained. Town Crier was very easy, the first two pitches are free, the second two pitches are 35-60 feet in length and are just short C1+ pitches. The "crux" pitch through the triple roofs is easy 100% fixed pins and goes very fast. After the crux pitch there one more 100 foot pitch or so of more C1-C2.

 

After doing two sustained very long pitches of C2, your totally ready for Town Crier or Green Dragon. Don't let the C3 rating of Green Dragon in the guidebook intimidate you, it's only C2.

[counterfeitfake]

Definitely need more practice before Town Crier

 

I think I disagree. Why do you say this?

[Jeff_T]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. My biggest concern is that we were moving pretty slow. Although, we knew we were only going to climb two pitches and weren't in too much of a hurry. I suppose if we were on Town Crier, we would be motivated to move a bit faster.

 

Jeff

[Sol]

After doing two sustained very long pitches of C2, your totally ready for Town Crier or Green Dragon. Don't let the C3 rating of Green Dragon in the guidebook intimidate you, it's only C2.

 

All those ratings will work-out as long as you stay at index. Be wary that unlike the free climing ratings at index, the aid ratings are actually pretty soft. Be prepared for much harder C2 in the valley or at squamish.

 

You guys should try P1 of narrow arrow direct, some good strenuous top-stepping. P3 of NAD can be aided with standard aid rack up to a BD 3.5. You guys are totally ready to give the Green Dragon a go, rest assured you can bail from anywhere on the route and there's nothing harder than you'll find on the first Narrow arrow pitches.

 

[counterfeitfake]

Yeah, there's nothing very tricky about TC (except maybe the roof on the first aid pitch- either swing around it or reportedly you can use an inverted cam hook to straight aid it). GD is a little trickier but if you felt good about micro-nut placements you should be good to go.

 

If you want to get faster you could have a couple races up City Park. But days are long right now anyway, learn as you go. Or just do it in two days.

[Sol]

short-fix yo!

[fenderfour]

Go get Town Crier. It's a fun climb with no real difficulties. The slot (p. 5?) can be awkward, but it's not too bad.

 

Green Drag-on is a little trickier. The roof on P4 is a bit strenuous.

[Rick]

Not trying to be a know it all, but, you need to keep your rope running as straight as possible to avoid the lifting action when the rope is weighted as evidenced in the one photo with the nut laying on top of the piece below it. Think of how the rope will staighten when weighted. This can be pontentially dangerous if all your pro rips below you if you fall!!!!!! Not to mention you will get horrendous rope drag using only biners on the pro. Simple fix is to use some shoulder length slings for clipping in the rope. You can still aid directly on the pro. Good luck with TC! Rick

[Jeff_T]

Heh, I was wondering when someone was going to catch that! The nut that's hanging there got pulled out when I forgot to unclip my daisy when moving up to the next piece.

 

Thanks for the tip. I guess I was focusing on the "aid" part and forgetting some of the basics....

 

Jeff