Omak Rocks Access Update

[Sargent_Rock]

I feel as if I should give a heads-up and inform all those interested in the current access situation with the Omak Rocks. If you are unaware of the historical access problems refer to the following link: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/04/issue1.html

 

New local climber Rich and I had heard through the grapevine that the individual who had caused the most recent access anguish had moved out of the area. We were told by (names withheld to protect the innocent) both an Omak climber and a landowner near the rocks that climbing was once again possible on both the Hide-Out and Reservation Rocks. Eager to show Rich some beautiful gems of Okanogan gneiss we went out yesterday. At first it looked like the only access problems would be similar to what I’ve experienced during the last 20 years: a gardener snake on a ledge and swifts flying in and out of a jam crack. But while finishing pitch number 4 on the Hide-Out we noticed a resident of a trailer below driving about in his pick-up. By the way the individual was driving back and forth, first to the old parking spot, then to where we discretely parked Rich’s car, then up to the above landowner’s place, then back to the trailer to watch us no doubt through some sort of scope, we could tell that access was once again a question.

 

Both being trained in quick assessments of human behavior we agreed that we should change our plans of going next to Reservation Rock (closer and more in the resident’s face) and instead we did the long hike to the White Block where to our understanding access is well established and permitted. And certainly the area is more remote.

 

After spending a beautiful afternoon, we hiked out laughing at the possible confrontation scenarios we were anticipating: would there be a “car chase” when the above resident chased us down? Where guns going to be involved? Was there going to be a road block or simply a note on Rich’s car? To our surprise when we go to the car there was a Tribal Police rig parked there. Here we met a friendly enough officer who then called in another officer. This officer informs us that they have been having problems with climbers going out to the cliffs this spring. We offered the information that we had spent most of the day up at the White Block where we understood climbing was permitted. The second officer then dropped a bomb shell when he stated that all climbing on any type of land falling under the Colville Indian reservation jurisdiction was forbidden. When asked why he stated that it was a liability issue. If they had to call 911 it would take to long to get to the climber. I kindly pointed out that in the mountains the same problem exists but the National Park Service doesn’t seem to have a liability problem. He stated that Reservation land was different. That it is.

 

After taking our names and numbers for some sort of “future action by his Sergeant” we were permitted to leave. We expressed apologize for wasting their time and our humble respect for Native American land and the wishes of the Native American people.

 

So we left, the afternoon glow on those beautiful golden rocks disappearing as another chapter in the access struggle closed.

 

 

[JosephH]

My wife is a member of the Colville Tribe. We don't live in Omak, though I know the crags you're speaking of. Lot's of good rock thereabouts. Had the ethics remained those of the original crew there likely wouldn't have been an issue. The problem was entirely self-made and created by relentless, in-your-face sport climbing development. It's their land, if provoked to the point of disallowing climbing, so be it - show some respect and don't climb there. Either that, or organize, apologize for past indiscretions, show that climbing can be done with some respect for the land, and augment that with a climbing wall and on-going programs for kids at the Paschal Sherman Indian School. But again, failing that, don't simply don't climb there.

[drater]

I feel as if I should give a heads-up and inform all those interested in the current access situation with the Omak Rocks. If you are unaware of the historical access problems refer to the following link: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/04/issue1.html

 

New local climber Rich and I had heard through the grapevine that the individual who had caused the most recent access anguish had moved out of the area. We were told by (names withheld to protect the innocent) both an Omak climber and a landowner near the rocks that climbing was once again possible on both the Hide-Out and Reservation Rocks. Eager to show Rich some beautiful gems of Okanogan gneiss we went out yesterday. At first it looked like the only access problems would be similar to what I’ve experienced during the last 20 years: a gardener snake on a ledge and swifts flying in and out of a jam crack. But while finishing pitch number 4 on the Hide-Out we noticed a resident of a trailer below driving about in his pick-up. By the way the individual was driving back and forth, first to the old parking spot, then to where we discretely parked Rich’s car, then up to the above landowner’s place, then back to the trailer to watch us no doubt through some sort of scope, we could tell that access was once again a question.

 

Both being trained in quick assessments of human behavior we agreed that we should change our plans of going next to Reservation Rock (closer and more in the resident’s face) and instead we did the long hike to the White Block where to our understanding access is well established and permitted. And certainly the area is more remote.

 

After spending a beautiful afternoon, we hiked out laughing at the possible confrontation scenarios we were anticipating: would there be a “car chase” when the above resident chased us down? Where guns going to be involved? Was there going to be a road block or simply a note on Rich’s car? To our surprise when we go to the car there was a Tribal Police rig parked there. Here we met a friendly enough officer who then called in another officer. This officer informs us that they have been having problems with climbers going out to the cliffs this spring. We offered the information that we had spent most of the day up at the White Block where we understood climbing was permitted. The second officer then dropped a bomb shell when he stated that all climbing on any type of land falling under the Colville Indian reservation jurisdiction was forbidden. When asked why he stated that it was a liability issue. If they had to call 911 it would take to long to get to the climber. I kindly pointed out that in the mountains the same problem exists but the National Park Service doesn’t seem to have a liability problem. He stated that Reservation land was different. That it is.

 

After taking our names and numbers for some sort of “future action by his Sergeant” we were permitted to leave. We expressed apologize for wasting their time and our humble respect for Native American land and the wishes of the Native American people.

 

So we left, the afternoon glow on those beautiful golden rocks disappearing as another chapter in the access struggle closed.

 

 

Shame they didn't give you a piss test....

 

 

Seriously tho, that sux. Too bad there's no good non rez rock around.

[ZONK]

Same old Shit.

PM Me If You could with the Officers names.

Thanks

[JosephH]

Same old shit for the same old reasons...

[drater]

"but if I don't write a guidebook, no one will know how rad I am"

[mattp]

I don't think the closures on the Omak Resevation resulted from sport climbing, Joseph. As I understand it, there was a sense that climbers were trespassing that infuriated many tribal members more than any specific concern over bolts. Also, as I recall, the use of chalk was in fact more of a sore point on Omak Lake Wall (or whatever it was called) than was the use of bolts.

 

Read the linked article: the closure followed a climber's soliciting tribal involvement in a bolt war, but there has not been any suggestion that trad climbing is OK while sport is not. Certainly, one could argue that a heavily bolted area is more likely to draw offending crowds - another Skaha may be feared by some - but "traditional ethics" is generally not the issue in and of itself.

 

Access restrictions on reservations around the country have frequently focussed on trespassing issues or the spiritual values of the rocks in question, and bolts have generally or at least frequently NOT been cited as an issue. In one famous incident in California, the presence of female climbers was said to be a desecration. Don't get me wrong: I know that the use of bolts has proven a sore spot in some areas, but my point is that tribal members, like other non-climbers interested in the lands where we seek to pursue our sport, often have other concerns besides bolting ethics.

[drater]

Got any background info on BLM policy/attitude towards climbing and more specifically bolting?

[Sargent_Rock]

I agree with you, mattp, that I don’t think it’s an issue of Trad vs Sport. It’s been my experience that it is a few individuals who have been insulted or feel threatened by rock climbing activity. Also, for me, it is hard to believe that bolts are seen as desecration of the landscape when the roads are so profusely littered with beer cans and plastic bottles.

Most of all I agree with JosephH: climbing needs to be presented in a positive light to the tribe if there is any hope of sustained activity.

Bottom line: I believe we must respect the Native American and their rights to determine their land use.

 

[andyf]

Got any background info on BLM policy/attitude towards climbing and more specifically bolting?

 

Generally very tolerant, unless designated wilderness is involved (not an issue with BLM lands in Washington, except for Juniper Dunes, which has no climbing). Shelf Road and Red Rocks are both on BLM land. At Shelf Road, the BLM has been amazingly supportive of climbing--witness the first-class camping area, trail work, working with the Access Fund on land acquisition, etc.

[JosephH]

Matt, when I say sport-climbing in this context I mean the whole ball of wax. Flagrant trespassing, bolting, chalk, not being discreet, talking up routes and guidebooks, new people whose main focus and concern was their climbing. The whole package is what was an 'in your face' approach. And from everything I've read and been told, there was a long run of the complete opposite of the quiet approach of the original crew. It was clear from day one this wasn't a place to go 'whole hog' on your own trip - the first crew in realized that.

 

It's the fairly self-absorbed 'development circus' I'm referring to and that's my opinion of what bit folks in the ass all the way around. That, and getting the law after tribal members over bolting issues was a surefire way to make a lasting impression that will not be soon forgotten the among the Colville. The bolts and chalk together in combination with the extended hoopla simply comes across as just another 'taking' without asking.

[catbirdseat]

Joseph, your definition of sport climbing is quite different from mine. I don't believe sport climbing naturally equates to bad behavior.

[JosephH]

Cat, once sport climbing areas are well established I tend to agree with you. It is the very often chaotic and messy process of the rapid development of a new area that most often causes the problem and that is definitely my perception in this case - there was little if anything subtle about it. You can disagree with this characterization of typical sport 'development' cycles, but I believe history is not necessarily going to be on your side.

[drater]

I believe history is not necessarily going to be on your side.

 

Particularly in this instance.

 

I personally feel it's the need the for acclaim and recognition that caused more harm than bolts in this case.

 

Publicity sucks. It's why I post pix with no beta.

[Marty]

"but if I don't write a guidebook, no one will know how rad I am"

 

I wrote a guidebook, touch my radness.

[drater]

Hahaha. Your guidebook is actually good. And doesn't give details on areas with a history of access problems.

 

Could have used some boldering tho.

[mattp]

I'm not following you here, Blowboarder. Was there a guidebook to climbs on the Reservation - or was the idea that one was about to be published a contributory factor in the Tribe's decision or that of any of the individual landowners involved? I know the climbers over there were largely secretive for twenty years or more and some feared what might come with publicity.

[Marty]

There's boulder problems listed at Minne. Besides, the Native Americans already got all the FA's of the boulders long ago broseph. Why do you think we're all climbing in Anasazi's now?

 

Edited June 20, 2007 by Marty

[Marty]

I heard Donny Baker has a little Native in him. Maybe he'll join in this important topic soon.

[drater]

I'm not following you here, Blowboarder. Was there a guidebook to climbs on the Reservation - or was the idea that one was about to be published a contributory factor in the Tribe's decision or that of any of the individual landowners involved? I know the climbers over there were largely secretive for twenty years or more and some feared what might come with publicity.

 

I'll let Sargent_Rock answer this if he will, I was 15 when some of this shit went down and probably don't have all the story straight. I was heckling one person in particular who made climbing at Omak a much more public endeavor. And yes, there was a guide published.

[drater]

I heard Donny Baker has a little Native in him. Maybe he'll join in this important topic soon.

 

My cousin in Inchelium told me Donny has had more than a little Native in him, if you know what I mean...

 

Goddamitanyway!

[Sargent_Rock]

To try and answer Mattp’s question about Guidebooks: Rick Hanks did in fact write a guidebook to the area. For sure he wanted to use it as a vehicle to show people what he had done (the I’m so “rad” motivation). But I believe that he was equally inspired by more traditional reasons, the same reasons that motivated early cragsman to keep journals at the huts in the pioneering days of the Lake District.

The “original” Omak climbers had adopted a no guidebook approach for various reasons. This was neither a new idea or that unique. The early climbers of Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth wanted to keep the area bookless. Some of the first ascenders of the Domelands wanted the area to stay “wild” and “undocumented.” In fact many of the early English climbers argued that there should be no published pictures of the crags because it would inspire non-climbers to go where only climbers should.

Rick’s guidebook did not irritate the landowners, or the Native Americans per se (his book never was commercially published). It did add fuel to the fire of animosity between Rick and the old guard. And it was this conflict in general that sucked the landowners and Native Americans politically and personally into the controversy.

 

[MtnClimbr]

I am going to be moving to Omak in the next two weeks...

 

Anyone know if there is any update on the local climbing situation? Or a better question: is there any non-Reservation climbing nearby?

 

There is a lot of rock in the area. Know of someone that has local knowledge? I'd love to talk with them... Thanks!

 

 

 

[drater]

Try PMing the OP in this thread...if he's not logging on anymore, PM me and I'll get you in contact with those in the know.

[drater]

non reservation climber friendly private land near Omak...