Lambone Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 So I saw the add in the rag. They look like they could be cool, but I'm skeptical. Anybody know who carries them? Anyone use them before? The new Wild country 0 looks like the shit for knifeblade cracks and scars, fuck those BallNutz things. More gear too drool over, the wish list grows! [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Oops I might be wrong. Removing [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 From a post on rec.climbing... > Hi Milkdud> Have you any report on the 2CU yet?> T> Hello T, Got to use the 2CAM in a variety of placements along TripleDirect on El Cap, at Mission Gorge polished rock, Mt Woodson, and BigRock. The shallow nature of the 2CAM is great for AID placements, as longas you put it in with the shallow pin side against the back of thecrack (common sense)..but hey, I futzed with it anyway. Think of it asa more secure surface area contact, that used to be a bit dicey on 2lobes of your 4cam units. The range is marginal at best, and be very careful of fullretraction and pushing the unit in, as it has cut-outs on the lobeswhich promote overcamming. Have yet to take a fall on one, but did kick an 80lb haulbag for a5' test hit. The 2CAM didn't slip, but did tweak a little at the lobepivot, such that the lobes don't match flush when fully released now.I'm certain this will be addressed by Splitter, as they are superresponsive to comments. They're not as finicky as Aliens when dirty, and yet to becleaned..I'm just going to see how much they can gum up before havingto tap them open The sling is spectra grade, and works well. What I really liked isthe large loop, which is great for an extra inch or two on AID. Iwouldn't Fifi it though, as any flare/scar you'd be putting these intowouldn't like a direct outward pull. In fact, a Screamer usually foundit's way attached to the 2CAM as a reflex. I hope this helps out. I'll be in the Sandias next week, and willreport any 'new' stuff about these neat units. Cheers -M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Oops - that was for the Two-Cam unit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 What kind of crappy gear review is that anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Re: Two cams - Jim Nelson carries them at Pro Mountain Sports in the U District. Re: BallNutz. The greatest. Have taken six or so wingers on them this year, held every time. They are the shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 The two smallest Ballnutz work great for clean aid in knifeblade scars, but:1. They are super shifty2. they are a bitch to clean3. they are super fragile...I've burned through two sets in only a handfull of walls Agreed, they are way better than pounding a blade,but a nice little cam of that size would be the shiznit! Anyway, I'm only wondering about the Splitter 4 cam or WC minicams. [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted February 7, 2002 Share Posted February 7, 2002 Hey Lambone, Sorryto poison your thread, but there aren't that many of us online anyway and the others have probably already commented if they wanted to . . . Maybe by opening up my thought on the trango's, I may get some helpful opinion's to an earlier request for info by me a while back. Read this if you have the time and comment, please. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000246 I've put mine through a lot of free climbing use and haven't experienced the problems you noted on durability: what is going on yours? All I've got so far is a slight kink. I'd be curious about your comments on the tracking issues in soft vs. hard rock noted by Will. Thus far, the only time shifiness has been a problem is when the placement was in flaring diagonal flakes. But then again, nothing else would have even come close to fitting anyway. A few of those placements would have required a perfect direction of pull to be effective. Just the same, they were (hopefully) better than nothing. I didn't happen to fall on those particular placements. A draw seems to keep them happy enough for almost all other placements. thanks,matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 7, 2002 Author Share Posted February 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Hey Lambone, Sorry to poison your thread, but there aren't that many of us online anyway and the others have probably already commented if they wanted to . . . No worries bro, I wasn't trying to dis ya or anything. I have only used Ballnutz aid climbing on Granite, I still haven’t been to S.Utah As you said, most of the shiftyness was felt in flaring pin scars. Usually it'd be picked up on quickly with a few bounces, but sometimes it'd just shift outa the blue! As I said these pieces are a great alternative for thin blades (ie. nipple pitch of Zodiac, great roof etc.) but I find them to be time consuming to place and clean. Especially if you are trying to reach way up, or over to place them and can't see if the "Ball" is seated properly. Cam hooks are the best quicker alternative, but that’s another story...talk about shifty The durability issue comes from cleaning them with a nut tool repetitively. This tends to screw up the wires and everything, especially if it is buried in a thin pin scar. My buddy sheared the "Ball" off of one by tapping the nut tool on the wrong side (hit the nutz side, not the ball side). I see how they’d be better for free climbing since you wouldn’t have to hammer ‘em out unless you fell on ‘em, but on aid I’ve always welded them with just one bounce, or had them blow and freak me out! Hope that answers what you were looking for. Takersleezy! [ 02-06-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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