mr._happy Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 what's the consensus on the alpha? okay on the approach? good on rock? warm? how about on vertical ice? btw, i wear trango extremes for everything and i think they rock. i'm only asking about the alphas cause i saw bigwall pete takeda wearing them in one of the latest mags, so now i've GOT to have a pair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 I haven't had the oppertunity to use them ice climbing yet but they hike well. The arches are a bit higher than others maybe for rock/ice climbing? I put in an insert to remove some of the arch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 I've used mine a couple of times and nothing but good things to say so far. My last plastics were Invernos, and although the Alphas don't seem quite as warm, they win on every other count. They're trimmer, lighter, better ankle flex and less shin-bang. Word is that the toungue gusset needs a little redesign...they're using the same "gasket" type closure as on the Invernos, but the softness of the plastic over the top of the foot is either too soft or not wide enough. I've not had any water/snow getting in, but I also haven't walked through a creek in them either. The things I appreciate most is the small profile, makes those invernos seem huge by comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 Alphas will feel like a VW bus compared to the Ferrari's that your drivin now... But they seem like a nice plastic boot. It is difficult to get the liner done up tight, there are no laces, only velcro. Leave it to BD to screw at least one thing up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr._happy Posted February 5, 2002 Author Share Posted February 5, 2002 thanks for the responses so far. i've climbed in the invernos before and found them clunky and awkward. can't imagine trying to approach in them. also had problems with shin-bang in them. hmmm...anybody wanna buy em? er, they're great boots, really.... is the alpha warm? could one wear them in say, alaska without supergaitors? they LOOK like they'd be great to climb in, cause they look really low profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 I dont have much else to go off of because these are my first pair of boots. Ive found them to be pretty darn comfortable and light. APproaches to ice are pretty short around here, but havent experienced any problems walking in them. In fact, it seems the longer the day the more my foot seems to mold into them and feel comfy. As lambone pointed out the liners are not lace-up. I was having problems keeping my heel in place, so wound up buying a pair of inverno liners which work great for me. They also give you that added warmth which I imagine the original liners dont. The only real concern I have had over them is the fact that they seem to get punctured easily. While in canada a few wks back I met two guys who were quite shocked when they found a hole in their brand new alphas (it was the first time they had worn them)! At that point I had noticed a large, deep scratch in mine. Just this week I found two holes, one (small), which has gone all the way thru the plastic. I know its possible to put holes in plastic with your crampons. But this seems a little excessive. Overall, I do like them after making some adaptations to meet my needs. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 I've taken mine on two trips to Lillooet and I think they do very well on vertical ice. They are nimble and light for the approaches and are warm. They are slicker than snot on packed icy trails and I hit the ground more than once - maybe I'll have to rough up the soles. There is a fine line where you tighten them for the climbing because they are soft enough you can stifle circulation. It sounds like I'll need to be careful not to step on my own feet or stick them with my tool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 You find them pretty slick, too?I thought it was just my klutzy ass! (then again, maybe it still is).Just last week as I went sliding down, preparing for the fall, I miraculously managed to stay on my feet. ALthough my helmet swung around my pack and smacked me in the eye And yes, I find I need to tighten them before I climb. If I do so too early it cuts off circulation and my feetzies get a bit chilled. Its actaully kind of a pain. Although sometimes I have found that fine line where they are just right. This was one of the reasons I considered having them stretched. Im holding off as long as possible and playing around with different ways of lacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRCO Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 For all you Colorado climbers, Bent Gate in Golden rents them if you would like to try them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 Ok, so I spoke too soon - I got home and checked my pair and I do have a hole in the toe of one boot. It doesn't look like it went all the way through so that's good, but after two 3-day trips the boots are a bit scratched and gouged. Maybe they weren't supposed to be used around crampons and other sharp stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr._happy Posted February 6, 2002 Author Share Posted February 6, 2002 that really surprises me that the alphas are so puncture-prone. you'd think the plastic would be stronger....think this is just a fluke or are all alphas like that? on a side note, i think 'smoky mcpot' is the next funniest name after 'richard feel free to use dick pumpington' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 I guess the soft plastic has its drawbacks. Then again, hard plastic is likely to split in half (as it did on Crack's boot last month). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacely Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 I just bough a pair. I'm size 12.5 US and these are releatively nimble, especially compared to the Invernos. Haven't taken them out of the house yet, but I have flat arches and these have a raised arch which presents a conflict with my foot. I'm working to adjust the footbed, but won't really know if this works until a full day of climbing. -spacely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafael_H Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 I have been using Alpha's for 2 years by now, and am very happy w/them since. For a "double boot" it is great and the velcro on the bootie insert is a big advantage in my experience. Haven't experienced slickness, but I am 180 lbs... Yes, the tongue raises a bit, depending on how one laces them. Ingeneral it would be a problem if crossing streams. I think tha advantages far outweigh this and would prepare for water crossings. Used only on vertical ice and short approaches. Why don't we ask Pete Takeda himself? Pete? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Rafael H: Why don't we ask Pete Takeda himself? Pete? NO LEGENDS!!! Legends are banned from this site by fiat of Rodchester so his points dont get disproved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr._happy Posted February 6, 2002 Author Share Posted February 6, 2002 i thought pope was a legend. how HE still gets to post here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtngrrrl Posted February 6, 2002 Share Posted February 6, 2002 as for the warmth question, i tend to have cold feet, and the alphas kept me warm over 6000 meters. standing around at the base of an ice climb might be colder than walking up a glacier at midnight. my level of comparison is limited since i've only used leathers up till now. i felt that the alphas were plush after years of freezing in leathers, and i am thrilled with the lack of clunkiness. they worked well scrambling up a rocky trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr._happy Posted February 6, 2002 Author Share Posted February 6, 2002 thanks, all the responses are very helpful. mtngrrl, what leathers have you worn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtngrrrl Posted February 9, 2002 Share Posted February 9, 2002 my leathers are not heavy duty... a pair of la sportiva makalus for women. like i said, i have been cold in them, but i'll hang onto something until a good deal comes along. i did 4 and 5000 meter peaks in them, and i stayed warm enough as long as i was moving. ice climbing in them worked adequately for stiffness, but sucked for cold at the belay. i only got my alphas in september, and i'm looking forward to getting a lot of use out them. they had great out of the box fit and comfort for me, a pleasant surprise since i had low expections for plastics. about the velcro deal, i like it. i guess the drawback is for serious iceclimbers, which i surely am not, but when i'm cold, bleary, and perhaps a little hypoxic, slapping some velcro together is easier than tying laces. i guess i still have to tie the outer laces. and the velcro did grab onto my socks a couple of times leaving a furry mess that ticked me off. hmmm, what was that i said about liking the velcro? ymmv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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