Sol Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 You just can't climb at index too long without stopping to gaze in amazement at what has been called the best corner at the crag, clay. Likewise, there comes a time when its siren song crescendo's and lures you to climb it. So, before i begin my own personal throttling, any beta on rack, thoughts on runouts, difficulty comparison (how sandbagged is it?), toprope accessibility, hints/tips, stories, history, or photos of this celebrated index classic? thanks ahead for any information, sol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 C1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 I got my ass handed to me on that climb last week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 22, 2007 Author Share Posted May 22, 2007 I got my ass handed to me on that climb last week! how much harder than the full p1 of japanease gardens was it for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 A whole lot funkier. It was ugly..hahhahaha.... but yeah, I definitely want to get back on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 you can top rope it by doing the perserse traverse and raping in, the last move is the crux... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Not that hard of a route for the grade. Bring doubles to 2 and 1 three and a set of nuts if you and maybe a micro cam. With this you can stitch it up. C1. Save a very small piece for the crux end. There are a couple really good rests. Enjoy! Its stunning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 It felt a little harder then Jap Gardens. But is much shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 There is a no hands butt scum just before pulling over the last bulge. This climb would definitely be 12a at squampton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.