Sol Posted May 22, 2007 Posted May 22, 2007 You just can't climb at index too long without stopping to gaze in amazement at what has been called the best corner at the crag, clay. Likewise, there comes a time when its siren song crescendo's and lures you to climb it. So, before i begin my own personal throttling, any beta on rack, thoughts on runouts, difficulty comparison (how sandbagged is it?), toprope accessibility, hints/tips, stories, history, or photos of this celebrated index classic? thanks ahead for any information, sol Quote
TeleRoss Posted May 22, 2007 Posted May 22, 2007 I got my ass handed to me on that climb last week! Quote
Sol Posted May 22, 2007 Author Posted May 22, 2007 I got my ass handed to me on that climb last week! how much harder than the full p1 of japanease gardens was it for you? Quote
TeleRoss Posted May 22, 2007 Posted May 22, 2007 A whole lot funkier. It was ugly..hahhahaha.... but yeah, I definitely want to get back on it! Quote
eric8 Posted May 23, 2007 Posted May 23, 2007 you can top rope it by doing the perserse traverse and raping in, the last move is the crux... Quote
TimL Posted May 23, 2007 Posted May 23, 2007 Not that hard of a route for the grade. Bring doubles to 2 and 1 three and a set of nuts if you and maybe a micro cam. With this you can stitch it up. C1. Save a very small piece for the crux end. There are a couple really good rests. Enjoy! Its stunning! Quote
TimL Posted May 23, 2007 Posted May 23, 2007 It felt a little harder then Jap Gardens. But is much shorter. Quote
bigwallben Posted May 24, 2007 Posted May 24, 2007 There is a no hands butt scum just before pulling over the last bulge. This climb would definitely be 12a at squampton. Quote
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