sprocket Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 So has Bourdon gotten flak for changing grades in his Select Guide? Usually he changes upward, Corner Crack 5.8 vs. 5.7 in McLane. I did notice that he grade downward on some routes that McLane had the first ascent, Orphan 5.8 vs. 5.9 in McLane. Quote
G-spotter Posted May 10, 2007 Posted May 10, 2007 different authors different opinions Orphan was 5.8 in the Campbell guide and feels 5.8 to me. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 You are full of shit cbs. I have the Culbert, Smaill and Campbell guides right here and it is Boomstick in all of them. Bull fucking shit. I have Smaill right in front of me, and it's Broomstick. Ah, then the jokes on me. McKillop lied. I showed you the goddamn book, remember. You saw it with your own fucking eyes. Broomstick Why are you two such dweebs? Quote
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 No it isn't. must be a typo in your copy of Smaill. Quote
G-spotter Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 From "A Climbers Guide to the Squamish Chief and Surrounding Areas" (Woodsworth 1967) The Boomstick Crack ascends from Broadway to the trees leading to the upper Squamish Buttress and the South Gully. From the last trees at the south end of Broadway, climb left (Class 3-4) along the top of the prominent exfoliation flake for 2 leads to trees. (First ascent: 1961 - Poul Nielson, Jim Sinclair, Jim Baldwin) Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 11, 2007 Author Posted May 11, 2007 Does the Exit 38 guidebook count Quote
Tanner Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 I've always called it broom stick crack untill I was corrected. I'm sure boom sticks are used to blast attacking sharks. Orphan is solid 5.8, Corner crack is an easy 5.7 flying circus 10a should not be made 10b polished or not. Didn't worlds toughest milkman get upgraded for .8-.9 in the new guide book? What does it matter anyway? Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 (edited) No it isn't. must be a typo in your copy of Smaill. No, it's not a typo. It is refered to as "Broomstick" once on page 78, three times on page 79, and once again each on pages 67, 103 and 109. Edited May 11, 2007 by Markmckillop Quote
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