[TR] Mt. Cokely, Arrowsmith Massif, Vancouver Island - West Ridge Buttress 5/1/2007

[blueserac]

Trip: Mt. Cokely, Arrowsmith Massif, Vancouver Island - West Ridge Buttress

 

Date: 5/1/2007

 

Trip Report:

Seeing as though it is spring I feel it is time to start thinking rock and alpine routes.

 

On the lower part of the Island, I can't think of many places that offer easy to get to multi-pitch rock routes. The benefit for this area is that these routes are on par for difficulty as the common routes that folks drive and take the ferry to Apron in Squamish for. Ok, the exposure isn't the same, and these routes are not developed (ie. bolted) as they are on the Apron. 200 meter routes that are easy to get to is a major plus.

 

Ok, gear placements are like some of the older routes on the Apron, runout. It is about the mileage, not the cool shiny gear right?

 

Jumajumalungma and I went up to Cokely two years ago (ok, we go whenever we can) to play on all of that readily accessable rock that is well the entire west ridge. It is all that nice rock on the left if looking at the col from the hairpin.

 

The rock is very solid and climbing is mostly easy fifth with three "crux" sections of one-move-wonders to about 5.7.

 

Gear Notes:

Wires

a few cams to (fist size) #3

single and double shoulder length slings

blade and angle pins.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at Hairpin and hike Cokely/Arrowsmith Col (Saddle Route) trail. About half way up the trail, where it steepens into the trail-come-creek section, hike to open section at the top. Here, look left at the base of the route about 15 meters away through the clearing. I think you have a handful of trees to steeple chase through.

 

Descend via hiking the ridge crest to the hiking trail from the col and follow that back down to the cars.

[blueserac]

Oh, and the rock is snow free now! The approach is snow covered!

[AlpineK]

Cool. I've skied on Vancouver Island but never climbed there.

[jordop]

That loooks really neat!

[G-spotter]

It looks kinda like the Pump Peak walls on seymour except longer.

[blueserac]

Where are the crags on Pump Peak, to the right or that sunny slope staring back at you when looking from the back of the ski area?

[crazy_t]

That looks cool. 3rd Flatiron-y, with more vegetation. Nice!

[blueserac]

The grazing is good up there.

[G-spotter]

all along the south + southeast face and up to ~40m high

[blueserac]

Didn't it set up with ice earlier in the winter?

[G-spotter]

Yes. Or frozen snice and turf with icicles