[TR] Tieton - Royal Columns - Various 4/28/2007

[fenderfour]

Trip: Tieton - Royal Columns - Various

 

Date: 4/28/2007

 

Trip Report:

I wanted some crack. Some moderate, low risk crack without a long approach. I've spent too much time in Vantage already this season, so Chris and I headed off to the Royal Columns to climb. Sorry there are no pics. I've been leaving the camera at home lately.

 

FYI - there's nothing new here if you've already been to the columns.

 

Saturday -

Jam Exam - This route was highly recommended by folks on this board last year. It's good stuff. Solid fingers (ish) and hands wiht one less than solid flaring bit.

 

Paul Maul - I only tr'd this and it still kicked my ass. I need to work on the finger technique.

 

Orange Sunshine - A terrific route. I got all sissy and had a take at the top. We took 3 more laps on TR to get some exercise and work on technique.

 

Solar King - A very cruxy start with almost no gear leads to much easier finger and hand crack over a roof. I'd give it a 5.9 after the crux.

 

We chatted with some folks at the crag - Fred and Randy. After dinner at The Drift Inn at Naches, we camped at the Honeycomb. It's a zany bit of rock with a couple of sport climbs in the low-elevens. I don't kick enough ass to climb there yet.

 

We drank beer, told stories and had a fire.

 

Sunday

Developing Arms - Stenuous hand crack beside Orange Sunshine. Yes, it is the one with a bush growing out of it. It's worth climbing if you want a good workout.

 

Cross-eyed and Painless - a fun finger crack with a steep dihedral at the top. Getting on the climb at the bottom is probably the crux. The steep bit at the top has good stances.

 

First Blood - ate me and spit me out. I really need to work on the wide shit. I had one #5 and one #4 cam. I wanted more. As it were, I had to protect with a few #3's in the only good jams (for me, anyways).

 

After groveling up First Blood, we called it an early day and drove back to Seattle.

 

BTW - Mojo Mountain Sports (used to be Hyperspud Sports) is great shop in downtown Yakima. They have shoe rentals and a good selection of gear. Drop by next time you are in town.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack, I was glad I brough more big stff for First Blood

 

Approach Notes:

Rattlesnakes and Scorpions along the trail

[selkirk]

First Blood = "Fist Crack" my ass. I actually thought Orange was more strenuous then Paul Maul! Though you have to be comfortable on little gear for Paul Maul. It eats up nuts though

 

Sounds like a good 2 days!

[miladugga]

Interesting to hear about First Blood. I'm just getting into crack climbing, and last year I did twin crack at Vantage and thought hey, I can do 5.8, then I went to Tieton and got on First Blood. 3/4 of the way up I was pumped out and had put in all the fist size gear I had, and had to lower off. Rapped down from the top to get my gear. So in other words it was really fun. This year First Blood is going down! Thanks for the TR, I'm psyched that it's open again.

[richard_noggin]

First Blood = "Fist Crack" my ass. I actually thought Orange was more strenuous then Paul Maul! Though you have to be comfortable on little gear for Paul Maul. It eats up nuts though

 

Sounds like a good 2 days!

 

First Blood, Fist crack my ass ...yeah!!!! unless you got some big paws..it's offwidth...and 5.8 BS I thought the 5.9's were easy'r

I tape up and bring hex's when I climb at the columns

Man that place isn't any good for pump'n the ego.

Jam exam 5.8 was way easy'r than First Blood 5.8!!!!

[MCash]

Nice report, sounds like a fun day. I haven't tried Solar King or Paul Maul yet. I agree that First Blood is kinda stout for a 5.8, maybe 5.9 is better, certainly not harder than Inca Roads though.

[fenderfour]

Jam exam 5.8 was way easy'r than First Blood 5.8!!!!

 

Jam Exam 5.9 is way easier than First Blood 5.8.

[fenderfour]

I wanted to get on Inca Road but there was a wait. I lost a bit of motivation after getting pwned on First Blood.

[richard_noggin]

Jam exam 5.8 was way easy'r than First Blood 5.8!!!!

 

Jam Exam 5.9 is way easier than First Blood 5.8.

 

Jam Exam 5.8 from Tieton River Rock by Matt and holli Christensen when did it become 5.9

[fenderfour]

With the Ford/Yoder guide.

 

[richard_noggin]

I onsighted Jam Exam but hung on first blood I felt so inscure with the rattly fist jams...don't believe everthing you read and Yoder has big paws if I remember right.Maybe I need to buy that new guide so I can pump my ego

[catbirdseat]

I've got medium size hands and found fist jams the entire way on First Blood. You sometimes have to reach deep, or reach high, but they are there. You also have the option of teacupping your hands, if you like.

 

I'd agree that it's pretty hard for 5.8. Remember that you can lead the much easier Mushmaker, 5.7 to the left and top rope First Blood, if you like.

[sprocket]

I've got small hands and First Blood is a thrutchfest for me, scariest thing I ever led, dropped my only big piece when I didn't re-clip it properly on my gear sling and then had to get creative and trust some marginal placements. Fortunately there are some small horizontal cracks that take TCU's about 2/3's of the way up and there are footholds most of the way. I don't think any one move is technically harder than the rest and 5.8 is fair although stiff for the grade IMO unless you have big hands or cruise offwidths.

 

I think 5.9 is fair for Jam Exam, there is one awkward move that can easily spit you off if you aren't attentive. I don't think Inca for example has a single harder move on it but it is sustained and gives people who don't pay attention to their feat fits.

 

If you want to stroke your ego I think the new Weekend Rock book calls Inca 5.10a.

[catbirdseat]

I would agree with that. It's quite a bit harder than Jam Exam.

[MCash]

Maybe Jam Exam is 5.9-