What rack for Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte

[alienPDX]

I have a friend coming in this weekend who is interested in climbing at Broughton Bluff or Rocky Butte. In general (can't specify routes, but a range from 5.7 to 5.11a) what should be on our rack for those areas?

[ivan]

standard rack's fine

 

do gandalf's grip - coolest climb there, imo.

[markd]

if you're friend is up to climb 10d, then i would give demian a go - my favorite climb there.

[billcoe]

What Mark said, and if he's up for the 11a you mention and it's too cool for Gandolfs (on the north face in the shade) , put Supersition on top of yer list, full on sun and sweet route. Maybe it will be dusted off and cleaned up again and I'll have a shot at it later in the year. (Re: gear for this one, small wireds help)

 

Good route.

[kevbone]

If you climb Supersition, you can TR a hard route under it and get some laps on it.

 

Classic Crack into the sporto climb above it.

Tie Stick into Critical Mass.

 

Get ready for greasy mixed climbs.....and wasps in the sun....

[alienPDX]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. All good info.

[billcoe]

Did ya get out? How did it go? You got pics?

 

I heard some of my buddies were out there - probably were tripping over each other. You meet Stan and Andrew?

 

BTW, I'd have pics of my Sat. (including Jason and his lil boy) but Ujahan had the camera.