Ice Climbing Crampons

[mneagle]

I'm looking to upgraded my vertical ice equipment. I've been thinking about Trango Harpoons vs. Grivel Rambos w/ monopoints. The Rambo Comps are enticing, but I'm worried that the tiny rear points would not allow French technique on lower angle stuff. Anybody got any advice about these models or others? Thanks

[David_Parker]

If you will be using these new crampons exclusively for vert ice because you have others for general mountaineering, I'd be sure to also check out Charlet Moser grade 8's or whatever the 2001 equivelant model is. Whole 'nother topic as to whether you want mono points or dual. I use duals so CM were far superior to Grivel because the points are closer together.

[fishstick]

I should begin by admitting that I haven't used harpoons or rambo comps. I fit a pair of the former on my boots once and decided to stick with my own units. If memory serves correct, I was unimpressed with the positioning of the front-most down points. I also see a potentially off-set mono bad solution to a non-existent problem. In terms of the rambo comp, I've looked at them. I once used (actually used them about three times) a pair of Stubia bear traps. Total death on a stick because of a huge spacing gap in the down points below the arch. You'd go to french over a feature and the crampon would skate out. Comps will have the same problem.

In terms of mono vs dual vs horizontal things aren't quite as complicated as it seems. Monos work very well on easy or well consolidated ice and simply rock on mixed or dry tool terrain. They're less happy on heavily aerated, thin or chandeliered ice. I've also had problems snapping the base of the foremost part of the tip of the front point off. It leaves a rounded edge and makes you wonder why you keep popping off small edges. Don't buy mono models that don't allow you to see the front-most down points. They're critical edging surfaces. Conventional vertical duals are OK, but I see little or no advantage over monos unless the ice is heavily aerated etc as mentioned above. Foot work is more important with duals as you have to be careful to keep your heels from moving side to side, especially on rock. For young (very tensioned/brittle/aerated ice on the coast I've gone back to horizontal points (2Fs) after wearing out three pairs of monos. They shear less and I often find that the harder the route, the better the natural footholds. Icy cluster-fucks that make tool placements brutal provide natural texture for your feet. For early season serac climbing (until about the first week of Oct at Baker) I use horizontals, but when the overhanging stuff forms really hard ice I switch to monos. The serations on the base of the front points keeps your feet a bit more secure when you're resisting a strong outward swing.

Hope this helps.

GB

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

I have never used anything but Rambo comps and switchblades. After the first time I used the Grivels I wanted to throw away the BDs. They are "sticky" with the monopoints and displace less ice in my opinion making for more efficient climbing because they seemed to place in the ice easier. my 2cents

[AJ]

A good friend of mine has been using the Trango Harpoons for two seasons. He tried it set up in dual vertical frontpoints and then switched to the offset mono. He prefers the mono and overall likes the Trangos. I was climbing with him at the Ouray Ice festival last year where he also tried a couple other models of crampons. The only ones he like more were the CM M-10s. In fact, he was going to upgrade but decided to stay with the Trangos until he gets new boots.

I'm still getting by with an old pair of Lowe Footfangs (yeah, not even the Superfang) with the centered monopoint kit.

I'm sure the Rambo and Rambo Comp are good crampons as well.

[forrest_m]

Just used my brand new moser m-10s last week up in the canadian rockies. They rocked the house, but then I'm just now making the leap to vertical points from horizontals, so I'd probably be equally psysched by any of the top-end units. The m-10s allow an absurd number of adjustments: mono or dual, offset or even frontpoints, points long or short, points flat or canted downwards. Pretty much whatever configuration you like, they can do it.

[Rafael_H]

I weighed M10 and Rambo regular myself, pair of M10 is half a pound heavier.

I found that it is easier to stand on mixed terrain with Rambo Comps.

[Dru]

anybody used the dmm terminators? they fit the curved scarpa freney boots REALLY well but I just played with them in the store and didn't shell out the cash yet.

[forrest_m]

m10 to rambo comparison...

half a pound heavier, that means 4 oz per boot, right? i think not enough to make any difference performance-wise, i'll bet you lose that much if you change from dual to mono points? i'd make my decision on which fit my boots better or try to demo both and see which ones i liked better.

also, i have a personal CM fetish, since in 8 years of hard use, 3 tools and 2 crampons i have never broken anything, never had a pick come loose, never had a mechanical breakdown of any kind - and that counts for a lot with me.

[fishstick]

Terminators

I tried Terminators a couple of times. I'd describe the performance as OK, but not on par with Charlet Nova/Grade 8 monos. Fat front point. Gotta kick HARD. The strangest problem I had with them is that the curved shape made me pronate badly on easy ground. It's as though your body weight rides along the curve of the outer rail. Wondering if it was the fact that I'm pretty bow-legged, I asked another climber who used them and he looked as his feet, looked up and said "that's it". He thought something was really weird about them but couldn't quite figure it out until then.

GB

 

[mneagle]

Thanks for the input. I went with the M-10's after your advice and finding them on sale at Barrabes for $118. It came with bi and mono points in 3 days. Ole!

[fishstick]

Since my previous posts I've managed to snag four days using Rambo comps. Initially I wasn't impressed with the fat front point; it forces the user to give a firmer kick than the old Charlet grade 8 mono. Having gotten used to them however, I think they have good potential. Still unsure about the fat mono in brittle ice, but the intial downward point (the yellow ones) layout is brilliant on steep terrain. Probably superior to normal rambos in that regard. The massive distance between the heel and forward points is certainly cause for concern, but the four small teeth on the rails limit skating. They're very small however and when balled up with snow, they're probably quite useless. Minor negative point is the ease with which one destroys gaitors with the forward yellow points. Overall however, not bad crampons for steep terrain.

GB

 

[mikeadam]

Rambo Comps: I wore these all last year and found that you have to keep an eye on the size adjustment system. It is easy to torque it out or partially out when you clamp those babies down. I was really startled to see them coming off one day on Pretty Nuts. Since then I fiddled a bit more and just double check before I start climbing. On low angle ice these crampons are the bomb too, but I can't imagine that you would buy them to scratch around on grade2 or AI.

Other than that? SOLID.

[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 10-16-2001).]