[TR] Shuksan - North Face (Attempt) 4/15/2007

[Wild_Bill]

Trip: Shuksan - North Face (Attempt)

 

Date: 4/15/2007

 

Trip Report:

Myself and a couple of friends went up to do TNF of Shuksan (again), but we were turned around by incredible amounts of snow and avalanche danger. Michael#2 and I misery-shoed through deep continuely wind loading snow, up to just below the route (above Pierce/price/whatever Lake). We decided to wait there behind the shelter of a large rock for Michael#1's report (yeah, there were two of them... must be a popular name in Austria). Michael#1 went up on skis just a little higher, and he expectedly came down to report more snow and seeing several fractures. So, you know, that was the end of that.

 

As soon as the snow sets up, the route will obviously be in great shape. The hanging glacier was even well covered on the left hand side. Down lower, there is substantial avalanche debris, to the likes of which I've never seen before, which is notable as it requires some time consuming circum-navigation. If you're considering this route, take a look at the approach notes.

 

I have a few pictures, but they're not on this computer. I didn't get any good ones of the route itself as I didn't want to get my camera out in the weather conditions, not to mention it was nearly a white out anyhow. Basically, everything's about how'd you expect, except with about an extra two+ feet of snow on top.

 

Side notes: No epic this time- not even a single cravasse entry (there've been an average of two per time on previous Shuksan TNF climbs). Get up early, it takes longer to get to the route than it looks like (condition depending I suppose). Ski it.

 

Questions? If you'd like any more info, reply to the post, or better yet email me at sherpa156@hotmail.com. You can message me if you want, but I log in like semi-seasaonly at best.

 

Gear Notes:

Skis, avy gear, pickets, the basics, Two-person Austrian bivy sacks (WTF?)?

 

Approach Notes:

I've done different combinations of this approach three times now. This time, we started at the pull off below the lower baker lodge, and we came up the clear cut just above the lower lodge (even though I swore to myself I would never ever do that again). Because of the ample snow, I would actually recommend going up and down the clear cut (yeah, I realize what I'm saying). There was even a boot pack up and some ski tracks down. To access this option from the parking lot, head slightly left and up the boundry line run that goes to... chair 8? Then cut downwards wherever it looks good (about a half mile from the lodge). Really, anywhere before the waterfall is fine to cut downwards. You could even ski all the way down if you pick the right line. This way would easily save an hour+ from the normal approach under the current conditions. NOT recommended when there is less snow.

 

As mentioned, we took the logging road down (from the pull off before the lower lodge). I know the book talks about this, but here's what I'd recommend as of last weekend. Take the loging road/snowshoe trail down (as mentioned in Selected #1), turn right at the OBVIOUS right fork (not the first questionable 'Beckey-obvious' side trail, but the later OBVIOUS fork). The slide alder was an ever-increasing obstacle, but just make your way through/around it until you get to the end, and you are faced with the fur trees. Take the last creek bed down just before the forest (this may mean turning around and going back a hundred feet or so). There are a few creek beds along the way, take the last one before the fur trees start, not a prior one. There seems to even be almost somewhat of a boot pack trail down the side of the creek bed that goes almost all the way down (way way way better than bushwaking through the forest), but the trail is subject to changing water conditions. Once you get to the main creek (white salmon creek?), head up and cross the creek to the other side as soon as you can (there's a huge log bridge at some point). Even though both sides of the forest look about the same from the creek, once you cross, it does open up a lot more on the far side of the creek and into the trees. Continue as mentioned in the book.

[Sol]

there is an approach that my friends and I call the magic carpet ride that takes 2-3 hours off of the approach to the north face. you climb up to the bottom of chair 8 and head uphill for about 30 yards, then start traversing left across a couple drainages, after the last drainage and about 5 min of bushwacking you'll hit this open chute which you can glissade or hike easily and directly to the basin below the hanging glacier.

[glm]

Glad to hear the route is still good and that there is still snow for the approach. I was there in January, great weather, but we dramatically overslept so we didn't have time to summit, but had a fun day out. Looks like I'll get another chance this season before the "bushwhack from hell" sets in.

[ericandlucie]

My husband and I are planning to stop for a month in the Cascades starting late May. Shuksan has been on our wish list for a while...

What kind of snow year did you guys have? In your opinion, would we still find snow on the approach three weeks from now?

What descent option would you recommend?

 

Thanks in advance for the info,

Lucie.

[Blake]

My husband and I are planning to stop for a month in the Cascades starting late May. Shuksan has been on our wish list for a while...

What kind of snow year did you guys have? In your opinion, would we still find snow on the approach three weeks from now?

What descent option would you recommend?

 

Thanks in advance for the info,

Lucie.

 

It's been an average to high snow year. I would expect post-holing and soft snow in the next few weeks. People who have been out lately have noted lots of fresh snow falling as well (although above the approach elevation for Shuksan.)

 

Your bus trip website is awesome, welcome to cc.com!

Edited April 26, 2007 by Blake

[G-spotter]

In your opinion, would we still find snow on the approach three weeks from now?

 

 

In an average year, you might find snow on the approach well into July... and it's an above average year for snow.

[ivan]

In your opinion, would we still find snow on the approach three weeks from now?

 

 

In an average year, you might find snow on the approach well into July... and it's an above average year for snow.

the first time i climbed shuksan was in the middle of august 2000 (a high show year) - lake ann was still frozen!