Rope

[Neri]

In regard to a rope

Any experience and/or suggestions and/or recommendation, for any make, model, diameter and length, specifically for glacier work?

I was thinking of the Edelweiss “Discover” 8.5mm X 30M would it be the best?

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Neri Carmi

nericarmi@yahoo.com

[Jman]

Got it, not sure if it's the "Discover" but same specs. Excellent choice for rope team of 2 or 3 (3 only if you tie into the ends with no excess - 4? forget it!). Make sure it's a "dry" rope. 30M is great to save on weight but makes for a tight team.

[To_The_Top]

Neri,

I agree that for lower angle glacier travel a 30 meter 8mm is good for a team of 2-3. Jim Nelson has them for around $80 at his shop Pro Mountain Sports north of the U-District, I'm not sure what kind it is but it is a dry rope (must be for glacier travel). Also another option is the Ice Floss by Blue Water ~$80, it is 37 meters and 7.8mm (available at many shops). I know that this rope will stay dry for many hours on a glacier, but I wouldn't take it on anything steeper than 35 degrees.

Bill

[Neri]

To all of you who reply so promptly

Thanx for the info

I think I'll go with the blue water 8.1mm X 37M seem to be the right length

 

[terrible_ted]

I have an 8.6mm X 50M 'double dry' (what a load of shit!) rope by Bluewater (Cascade Crags) It stays as dry as any of the 'dry' ropes. It's more versatile than the shorter and skinnier ropes. The trade-off is the extra 13M costs some weight. 15 - 20M spacing is nice, 10M spacing gets a bit tight... (3 on a 30 - 37M).

You might want to think about your glacier travel objectives for the future. If you anticipate getting out on the biggens regularly, you might find the skinny short rope doesn't meet your needs all of the time. An 8.x X 50M will pretty much cover you for everything you might do on a glacier... well, almost everything

I actually carry 100' of 6mm accessory cord for snow scrambling. Very light, and adequate for handlines, short rapps and easy runouts. You'd hate to take a dyno load on it - it might pop the teeth out of your gums!

-t

[Yossarian]

Anyone use that dry treatment stuff you buy in a bottle?

[Rodchester]

Yoss,

Yes I have treated my ropes with it. They were starting to get wet, factory treatment was wearing off. My understanding is that it is almost all the same. I got a deal on some and soaked the ropes in it. It worked quite well.

[willstrickland]

If you want a 30m, just cut your old, about to be retired, cragging rope in half. Hell, you'll end up stepping on it with crampons a bunch, and any fall is likely to be minor as far as stresses and fall factor are concerned. That's my view, but I also don't climb a whole lot of snow/ice/glacier routes so I can't justify having a rope specifically for glacier routes. As far as brands, I've climbed on just about everything, and the only ropes that stand out in my mind are the Edeweiss Stratos 11mm (for a beefy-ass wall rope, it can't be beat), the Maxim standard 10.5 (great hand for rock routes), the Sterling Marathon 10.2 (sheath is freakin indestructible), and finally the Roca 10mm (because they make 'em up to 75m and I love long ropes for long rock routes). Don't know that I've said anything to help you out, but other people pick up opinions off the threads too...maybe someone will find value in it.