Drilled route at Rocky Butte

[JosephH]

So who were the authors of the wholly manufactured overhanging route out at RB?

[layton]

Can I get the topo?

[JosephH]

Drop straight down from the middle of the fence and you'll be on it.

[pink]

par for the course.

[billcoe]

So who were the authors of the wholly manufactured overhanging route out at RB?

 

Oh Oh, sounds like th fixed draws on the route inhibited the send and the sh*t is about to hit the fan? I thought for sure the 113# gorilla would have sent....

 

Stand back....

 

Wayne1112, can you field this one? Maybe Olsen. BTW Wayne, is the 1112 your birthday: ie 11-12.

[JosephH]

There was only a fixed sling on a bolt and Sean did quite well and basically worked the bulk of the route out. He just needs to get the lower moves wired so he has the energy for the upper part. Just curious who did this, I'll ask Gary when I get the chance - thought you guys would know of the top of your head...

[billcoe]

Yeah, I don't know, sorry. It's been that way for a long time. I suppose if you look it up in "Portland rock climbs" guidebook, the FA info in the back will tip you off. Interestingly, Gary and I did the line to the left about halfway up the wall on aid once.

[JosephH]

Ah, thanks, that's what I thought. Could just as easily have been Broughton or Beacon. Always interesting to see what can insue as folks' personalities adjust to their accomplishments.

[wayne]

Let the record state, I have no knowledge of this project or how old it might be. My days at Rocky were brief, and thats been it there since. Prolly some gym rat with a drill. I did a route once on the Terwilliger bridge befoere they demoed it in the 90s.

11+12 are my daughters birthdays btw Billbo

[JosephH]

The most interesting thing about it is what appears to be the one natural divot at the outer base of the overhang - it seems to have been the inspiration for the whole affair.

[billcoe]

Well, I figured since Wayne was around back when and probably one of the few people strong enough to get up something like that, someone would have given him the beta and encouragement to do the route. It seems to me like it's been there for maybe 15-18 years...I'm not sure, but it seems like it's been there a long time. I've never even tried it as mono pocketed overhangs conflict with my fat ass and weak finger combonation. Figured it would be a recipe for meaningless tendon destruction for me, and really have to Sgt Schultz this one. (I know notzinggggg! )

 

didn't mean to sound too flippant on my first post. This is the only route I know of thats seen drilled holds. But of course about everthing out there has seen modifications, from trundling 500 lb death blocks, to nailing (so the cracks unintentionally get clean and turn into great fingerlocks ala Blackberry/WRabbit/Birds) and shoveling and scraping dirt out of the cracks (ever route out there) it all modifies the natural nature of the routes. I've done my share of all of that and the end result is that the place is a better place (IMO). Last think I'd want to see is some poor bastard take a ride to the ground hanging onto a 500 lb block which had been loose.

 

Given some of the other crazyness out there, on a scale of 1-10 of things that piss me off or bother me, given the area, this isn't even on the chart.

 

In an area where everything has been modified, someone (via a conventional ethical lapse) put up a damn difficult route which looks nice and stays dryer than the rest of the place. It appears that they didn't touch anything else out there before or after in this manner.

 

Anyway, I suspect that a quick preview of the book will get you an answer.

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Mike topos of this route are available for $10 $15 for you.