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Posted

I used Scarpa Alphas for a month camping between 5000 and 5500 meters and I was fine. The Alphas aren't very warm so you're probably better off with the Nepal Extremes.

Posted (edited)

I'm not using plastic boots, I have my Nepal Extereme leather boots and its what I'm going to use. It sounds, like what I was thinking, that overboots would be overkill? I just wanted to make sure from others experiences. I like warm toes

Edited by AlpineMonkey
Posted

Depends on a lot of factors, but, two differennt people I climbed with in Peru used leathers with overboots and ended up getting cold toes up high on routes. I used plastics it was never an issue. On the shady aspects and at night, the temps get very cold. Plastics may seem like over kill, but they really arn't. Just my two cents

Posted

I used my Scarpa Invernos when I got into the steeper snow and ice climbing. I spent 3 months there and was one of the BEST clibming trips ever!!

 

I used a good pair of trail running shoes for teh approaches. Which are very nice!!

 

The local ladies are off the hook!!!!

 

:yoda:

Posted

Huascaran can be pretty cold on the summit day. Have seen folks typically wear plastics and Nepal Extremes. Think I remember on one trip seeing a guy wearing hiking boots. Mostly vagabon folks, really going on the cheap...picking up gear along the way. Don't let that fool ya, though...

 

If you're thinking overboots for the coldest trips, Forty Below makes some short ones that easily work with regular gaiters (if you get cold feet), so it'll allow some flexiblity...depending on the peak, conditions and temps.

 

Some of the approaches to some climbs are on slabs, and a more flexible boot can make them easier and faster to ascend and descend.

 

Be sure to let us know how your trip goes, and how your boots preformed.

Posted

I used leathers when I was there a few years ago. They were fine except on the high south faces, where I actually got a little frostbite. I'm going with plastics this time. I'm not sure what your objectives are but I would definately recommend plastics unless you plan on doing warm climbs.

Posted

Look to your AGE, then if you have any circulatory conditions (including just getting cold toes), and finally how EXPERIENCED you are at altitude and in general (this makes a HUGE difference).

 

If you think you need overboots, bring plastics (unless you think you will be doing HARD technical climbing above 20,000').

 

Summit day on Huascaran had my feet numb to the ankles on the way up in plastics.

 

Just "going to Peru" is pretty broad, so figure on how high you plan to go. FYI the last guy I saw with those boots on (it was Argentina) froze both big toes.

Posted (edited)

I can't recomend going with plastics enough. Yes, they are an expensive addition to trip costs, but in the long run they are well worth the money and you will definately get use out of them after your trip. I have had a couple of good friends fall victim to frostbite and it is nothing to fuck around with. If there is any question about whether you should be wearing plastic boots for a particular route, it means you should probably go with plastics. You will be shocked at how cold it gets the closer you get to 6000 meters, especially on the south faces. With plasics your feet will stay drier and warmer than with leathers and overboots.

Edited by sill
Posted

Has anyone tried the Integral Designs vapor barrier liners to keep sweat from soaking their outer socks/insoles? Recently, on a trip to the Colchuck area, the inner boots and my orthotics got pretty damp from foot sweat, and a pal of mine with me at the time had Nepal Extremes, with the vapor barrier liners...his feet stayed warm, and my toes ended up getting cold.

 

Just food for thought; might be something to experiment with.

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