TIETON: RAPTOR CLOSURE IN EFFECT

[sobo]

I've been informed that the raptor closure is already in effect. It began February 1. However, it only applies to the three lowest climbing areas: Tim's Pond Wall (which no one ever does anyway), Royal Columns, and The Bend. Anything further up the road towards White Pass is still open. That would include Moon Rocks, Windy Point, Oasis, The Cave, etc.

 

Cross-posted to Access Issues and Rock Climbing forums.

 

NYC007, I couldn't update my PM to you because you're "over the limit for receiving private messages". Clean out your inbox!

[Mr_Phil]

Until ???

[sobo]

If they don't nest, they usually open up around mid-April. If they nest, the closure continues until they fledge, usually by July.

 

Bruce at the Wildlife Station told me that they are currently watching several pairs flying around the area. With that many pairs about, it is likely that there will be at least one nesting pair this year, so be thinking about doing your climbing further upriver.

[MCash]

Man, that sucks big time. Why February 1st instead of March 1st? I wanted to go over there and get some cragging in this month at The Bend.

[sobo]

Martin,

Drive up the road another mile or so and climb at Moon Rocks.

[MCash]

I have before, it was dirty and not nearly as good. Might try Wildcat Wall.

 

Thanks a lot for the heads up!

[sobo]

Wildcat Road might still be under a few feet of snow higher up, and if not, will certainly be very spongy/soft. Be prepared.

 

Anecdote: A couple of years ago I was up there by myself in March and had to lever a bunch of boulders off the road and over the edge. Bring Hercules.

 

The Cave, Oasis, and Windy Point will be drier and warmer, as they are at lower altitude.

[richard_noggin]

It so sucks that every year when the time is right to pull out the gear and climb back to back classic cracks it gets shut down! But hey Karma is a wheel and to enjoy it later in the year we have to do the right thing now..... could someone please change those ratings so I can pump my ego instead of comeing away with my tail tucked between my legs in defeat like a beat dog.

[richard_noggin]

Now that you have got me dreaming of ( at my mank ass grade ) classic cracks.

Any objections to anchors at the top of level head/royal columns

BTW Tieton river rock by Matt Christensen and Holli Bell Christensen best guide book ever!!!!!!!

[andyf]

I have before, it was dirty and not nearly as good.

 

Last year (spring 2006) I re-cleaned Moonstruck (.10a), Bloody Knuckles (.10b) and Comeback Crack (.10c). All three should be as good as any comparable length of crack at the Bend.

 

I also cleaned the huge bushes (and in one case, a small tree) growing out of Lunar Rover (.12a) and Ages of You (.11c R). I replaced the two mank fixed pins on Ages with bolts (gasp!). Before anyone blows a unit, this was my FA twenty years ago and from the looks of it, no one else had climbed it in the twenty years since. I still have a little more work left to do on the route.

 

Moon Rocks should get more attention. There aren't many other crags in Washington where you can so easily set up topropes on 100' sustained 5.11 and 5.12 cracks.

[sobo]

Moon Rocks should get more attention. There aren't many other crags in Washington where you can so easily set up topropes on 100' sustained 5.11 and 5.12 cracks.

 

That's what keeps my fat ass away from there...

[MCash]

Great work Andy, thanks for the info.

[AR_Guy]

So where can we find out when this closure is lifted? I looked around a bit on the WDFW web site but couldn't find anything obvious. I'm VERY interested in climbing Royal Columns this year. The high concentration of low grade (5.6 and under) trad routes are calling this total newbie trad leader.

[sobo]

Wait until around IRS Day, then call the WA State Department of Fish & Wildlife's (DFW) Oak Creek Wildlife Station at (509) 653-2390, and ask either John McGowan (manager) or Bruce Berry (assistant) when/if the closure will be/is lifted.

 

If the birds nest, closure around the particular nesting area(s) will continue until July. The DFW will close the area in a 300-foot radius (minimum) around the nesting site(s). Typically, raptors have nested at the far eastern end of The Bend wall for the past several seasons. Haven't heard of a pair nesting at Royal Columns for many many years now, so you might be all good after mid-April.

[catbirdseat]

Now that you have got me dreaming of ( at my mank ass grade ) classic cracks.

Any objections to anchors at the top of level head/royal columns

BTW Tieton river rock by Matt Christensen and Holli Bell Christensen best guide book ever!!!!!!!

 

Why would you want to put a bolt anchor on that one when you can belay comfortably from a nice ledge with a gear anchor behind you and then walk over to an existing rap route?

 

There is a similar 5.6 double crack to the left of Level Head, called Bridger, that actually would be a better candidate for an anchor because of the fact that the top out is in dirt. I've never seen anyone climb that route and it is darned good. It's a little harder than Level Head because it has a longer steep section near the top.