Tunneling through Cornice

[letsroll]

Ok I have read a couple route descriptions where you may have to do this. I can't figure the best way to do this. Start at the lowest point of the cornice and work your way through at a 45 deg angle? Do you worry about the cornice detatching or if it is big enough for you to tunne through it is larg enough you don't have to worry?

[ClimbingPanther]

I think, more important then how you get through it, there's two words to remember:

Bombproof anchor! (and out of the way of the ensuing mini-avalanche)

 

As for the tunneling itself, this is a good topic 'cause I'll likely be on a route this spring with one. I intend to treat it like performing surgery. Very delicately, bit by bit. I will worry about it detaching no matter how strong it looks.

 

 

 

[G-spotter]

1) Find where the cornice is thinnest and overhangs the least

2) Have someone establish a protected belay well out of the fall line, belayed to a big ass bollard, buried deadman, etc.

3) Take your adze and get to digging. Cut away everything overhanging above you. Basically make a vertical trench and stem your way up it until you can reach higher.

4) Once you cut your way through, belay down the far side where you aren't gonna go for a ride if the cornice detaches suddenly.

[Z-Man]

I used a method very similar to what Dru suggested on this:

 

 

There should be a portion of the cornice, regardless of height, that is overhanging little enough to be able to dig almost straight upwards. If there is much room available straight back into the cornice one can also dig small platforms into the snow as you go upwards. I would also highly recommend taking a shovel blade and throwing it onto the shaft of your ice tool to speed things up.

Edited February 13, 2007 by Z-Man

[AlpineK]

1) Find where the cornice is thinnest and overhangs the least

2) Have someone establish a protected belay well out of the fall line, belayed to a big ass bollard, buried deadman, etc.

3) Take your adze and get to digging. Cut away everything overhanging above you. Basically make a vertical trench and stem your way up it until you can reach higher.

4) Once you cut your way through, belay down the far side where you aren't gonna go for a ride if the cornice detaches suddenly.

 

I climbed the NW Bowl on Andromeda back a long time ago, and I figured it out on my own, but I followed Dru's advice. Fortunately I had a shovel with me and that helped. You just dig a hole straight above you. There was ice under the snow so I could put in some ice screws. It tok a bit, but eventually I could crawl out onto the summit plateau and belay my partner up. It's a pretty thrilling thing to do.