Buckaroo Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Ice is in, did 4 climbs in the Rambles and ICBC, get it while it's cold, looks cold enough for the next couple weeks except for tues. will write a better TR later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 19, 2007 Author Share Posted January 19, 2007 everything a little thin, but stuff that usually doesn't form was in Jan 16th drive up and did Icy BC 1st pitch, thinner than usual but do-able. Upper pitch looks in but not fat. Top roped the Deeping Wall, steep all the way but picked out. Hooked almost all the way but partner found an relatively unmolested line. having done all the regulars, loose lady, carls berg, syncronicity, tried for some other stuff. 17th, the Rambles, the cirque in plain site directly across from the hiway from the bridge, did The Column (4-) and The Peterson Smaridge Dihedral, (4+) it was fully formed, full 50 meters, very nice, thin but good screws and the last 30' was bolt protected cuz the top is usually very thin if it's even in, the book says it usually only forms 1/2 height. 18th, the Rambles, the cirque viewable across the hiway and right from the bridge. Closet secrets, very interestingly thin but ok screws, shallow ice in spots, rocked the tools. Alpine traversed toward Shreddy (fully formed, rare) to try for a top rope, ledge tapered to featureless slab, abakalov off a little shroom, rap and tension traverse into below the top of Shreddy, climbed up, cleaned the anchor and twin 60's reach the ground! AWESOME 5!, fun on toprope, should have led it, several marginal rests on the upper curtain but screws maybe not easy. Lots of shrooms, lots of chandeliers, sort of wet on the right side. Beta, the "foot/snowmobile bridge" described in the new guide as being 3k past Carls Berg is more like 3 miles past Carls Berg. The foot bridge got washed away, now it's a full one lane vehicle bridge, you can't miss it about 150' off the road in plain site. The approach to the Column cirque was icy rock, a beater set of crampons would make it faster. The Shreddy cirque should not be approached in warm conditions, it's a box canyon gully, if the huge free hanging daggers come down on Shreddy it's not going to be pretty for anything within the upper 300' of the gully and there's nowhere to go. Almost had an epic, toproping my buddy on Shreddy, noted one of the ropes was getting icy. We'd put a directional to keep the climber out of the wet but the other side of the rope was in the wet. Decided I could pull up our third rope if it got too iced before I needed to rap. It seemed ok, NOT. the rope was iced in spots, the REI gloves got iced from the climb and started slipping on rapel. Wound the rope around my arm and ripped the shell off, luckily the liner glove was dry and got traction. All the while free hanging at 120'. big sigh back on the ground. The rope is pretty new dry. Just a bad combo of conditions. The Lillooet weather report on TV at the hotel said below freezing for the next couple weeks except for next tues (0C), and -14C on the 27th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Almost had an epic, toproping my buddy on Shreddy, noted one of the ropes was getting icy. We'd put a directional to keep the climber out of the wet but the other side of the rope was in the wet. Decided I could pull up our third rope if it got too iced before I needed to rap. It seemed ok, NOT. the rope was iced in spots, the REI gloves got iced from the climb and started slipping on rapel. Wound the rope around my arm and ripped the shell off, luckily the liner glove was dry and got traction. All the while free hanging at 120'. big sigh back on the ground. The rope is pretty new dry. Just a bad combo of conditions. May I suggest: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 The Lillooet weather report on TV at the hotel said below freezing for the next couple weeks except for next tues (0C), and -14C on the 27th. Dont believe the hype its plus 2 there right now, ouch and a high of 4 for tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 Yeah, I always carry two prussiks but had just used them on the abakalov. I know about backing up a rap with a prussik but have never seen it done. Does it work on iced ropes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 Yeah, the weather channel ehh? We all know the forecast is right/wrong 50 percent of the time. Oh well guess we have to go to Banff now. You never know though, the canyons are higher than the town, so if it gets cold again, these things could still be there in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 23, 2007 Author Share Posted January 23, 2007 The Column at The Rambles Peterson Smaridge Dihedral, thin but full length Peterson Smaridge Dihedral Closet Secrets, pitch 1 grade 3-4, in thin conditions Closet Secrets, pitch 2 , grade 4, Shreddie on the right, lens makes it look off angle, but top 2/3 is vertical Shreddie, Grade 5, the camera lens distorts distances, the 3 to 4 ramp to the big cave is 1/3 height, the upper vertical grade 5 section is 2/3 of total length, about 40M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Actually, for Closet Secrets, that is pretty damn fat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Nice pics :tup: Looks like things would hold up to a bit of a thaw, in the freeze/thaw cycle. Probably well below the 0C mark in the darkness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Great pics, thanks. P-S dihedral and column look great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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