Delmarco Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I've been using the USA Mammut Focus, the one sold at REI, and I came across the European version of the Focus (its also called the Mammut Mirage in the USA) last weekend and it looks much more bad-ass and lighter...I'm just not sure about comfort and wanted to know if anyone can comment on it. It's also similar to the Mammut mana harness except the leg loops are adjustable on this one. (I want to do more sport climbing this year and thinking of picking it up specifically for that.) Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I think there's no info on harnesses in the Gear Critic section because nobody cares about what harness they use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 I think you need to think about buying gear less and climb more. You have a harness... it's working for you... you're not going to climb better with a new one!!!!!! I promise!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Oh... and why do you need adjustable leg loops on a sport climbing harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 beauty. nice pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 Delmarco I have a Mammut harness and I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattStan Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 @Delmarco: Comfort and fit should always rule over brand. If possible, you should try and hang in it in the store for at least two or three minutes. @Aya: Many folks, for various reasons, find that their thighs possess a bit too much girth for standard leg loops, and hence seek lightweight harnesses w/ adjustable leg loops. Witness Arcteryx's infamous Zzril, which has leg loops best left to superwaif Kate Moss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delmarco Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 @Delmarco: Comfort and fit should always rule over brand. If possible, you should try and hang in it in the store for at least two or three minutes. @Aya: Many folks, for various reasons, find that their thighs possess a bit too much girth for standard leg loops, and hence seek lightweight harnesses w/ adjustable leg loops. Witness Arcteryx's infamous Zzril, which has leg loops best left to superwaif Kate Moss. Thx. I already ordered it ($39 free shipping-eBay). I needed to replace my old Mammut harness that was too small for winter climbing (see yard sale). I sold that one and decided to buy two for future use. Another reason is I sometimes climb with people (/co-workers/gfriends/relatives/kidnapped Dunkin-Donuts clerks) that don't regularly climb and own gear so sometimes I share or lend out what I have. I never considered buying fixed leg loops even for sport. I'm aware of the weight savings being the key difference that claims to improve climbing and make consumers fork up more dough at the cashwrap. I'm sure the sweat that clings and drips off the average climber from climbing a few pitches weighs more that the two buckles combined on the adjustable leg loops. Hopefully, the Mirage will come before I go up to the catskills on Thursday so I can give it some sort of review. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 Eh. Non-adjustable leg loop harnesses don't really cost any more or less. I have just never liked having a buckle down in that region when in shorts. I find the elastic on non-adjustable leg loops more comfortable. The weight isn't really the issue. On certain harnesses (like some of the petzl ones) the buckles are around to the side and not so much of an issue. On most, though (eg the Mammut posted above), they're uncomfortably close to my inner thigh. I'm sure this isn't the case for everyone. Delmarco - I just assumed that since in your OP you stated that you wanted this harness because it might be lighter than what you had, for use as a sport climbing harness, the weight (eg from buckles and all the extra webbing to go through them) actually was a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 btw... I really love the petzl adjama. hands down the most comfortable harness I've ever hung in (though I've never been in a really huge cushy bigwall harness). It's totally worth the $75 as compared to the ~$50 of most others. Delmarco - if you're looking for a harness that you can use for your various partners - this is probably more the route you want to go, since it only comes in two sizes, i.e. it fits a much larger range of sizes than most harnesses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) I wear a mammut for ice and big wall. It is nice but slighlty inhibits reach due to the swami being so wide. It is certainly better than any of the stuffed Black Diamond rigs though! Edited January 22, 2007 by Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 22, 2007 Share Posted January 22, 2007 I can't stand any of the BD harnesses with the exception of maybe the alpine bod. They all seem to dig into my ribcage in the front, and for whatever reason, half of the womens' harnesses only have 3 gear loops. The spacing of the ice clipper slots on the blizzard (the petzl caritools are far superior) is so silly because they totally interfere with the gear loops... of course, that said, I do use a Blizzard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delmarco Posted January 27, 2007 Author Share Posted January 27, 2007 Thanks Aya, I used to swear by PETZL Harnesses and I wore out my favorite Dyonisis harness over a 7 year period. I'll definately check out the Adjama next paycheck. BTW. The Mirage Harness came today and it's not as light as it looks in the picture. The blue sections seem to be stiff and contributes to most of the wieght. My problem is I have a short torso (19-20 inches) for my height and most of the newer harnesses I tried on fit higher on my waist than I'd like except the MAMMUT "contour fit" harnesses, that is why I lean towards that brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aya Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 FYI - it's probably not your torso length that's affecting this - it's just the length of the rise. There are harnesses (eg Metolius Safe-tech) out there with adjustable rises. In fact, I'd almost imagine that a relatively short torso would make your harnesses sit *lower*, since all your other measurements are probably longer to compensate for the shorter torso (). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delmarco Posted January 27, 2007 Author Share Posted January 27, 2007 In fact, I'd almost imagine that a relatively short torso would make your harnesses sit *lower*, since all your other measurements are probably longer to compensate for the shorter torso (). the distance from my belly button to the belay loop is average whiles the distance from my belly button to my neck is slightly shorter than average so the harness "feels" higher 'specially when its pulled on. yup the human body is a weird thing, LOL! below is an old scan (~1999) w/ the Dionysis Harness. you see the belt rides high on me (not as high as other brands tend to- exception being the Mammut harnesses I ordered that sits perfectly on me & I have to check out the adjama & meto ones you mention) when you compare to how the Mammut Focus in this link fits me 100% better and you'll see what i mean. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/636418/page/3#Post636418 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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