The Optimists?

[Winter]

I'd just like to point out that this thread was originally about the Optimists, and we still don't have any solid info on who exactly retro-bolted it and whether the FA gives a shit or not.

 

The rest of this thread is just a bunch of regurgitated BS that's been debated ad nauseum on this web site.

 

 

 

 

[sprocket]

Sonnie has freed Cobra Crack (only one of the three hardest trad routes in the world)

 

Just curious, what are the other two? Green Spit? Magic Line?

 

So...does any of these "hard man cracks" have second accents?

 

 

As far as I know Green Spit has only one ascent by Didier Berthod and the Magic Line has only one ascent on pre-placed gear by Ron Kauk.

[G-spotter]

The other two I was thinking of were actually Rhapsody E11 7a (14b/c) Scotland, and Lurgorri pitch one 14c Spain.

[Off_White]

The Spray extension of this thread can be found here.

[kevbone]

Off....thanks for cutting me off. I was gettin alittle out of hand. All though my response to the "good Dr." was not out of line I believe. If he gets his snide remarks to stay then I at least get to respond. I will try to respond in "rock climbing" kind of way!!

 

[kevbone]

This is directly related to The Optimists!

 

So another interesting question. You bolt an old aid line because you don’t have the balls to lead it on the existing gear….that is supposed to be “better style”. And then you get to rename it? WTF? I would think renaming it is a slam of disrespect of those who came before you. The “renaming” thing is kind of a new thing of late. Potter free’s an old aid line that has been established since the early 70’s and he gets to rename it? I completely think this is crap. Its not a new climb, just a different way of climbing it. Its not “better style” just different style.

[G-spotter]

You mean new thing, like the way Bridwell and John Long "disrespected" the East Face of Washington Column by renaming it Astroman when they freed it in the 1970's? Yeah right

Learn some history, boy.

[kevbone]

Renaming a "butress" that has a name like "the west face" to a acutall individual name, is cool. Renaming a cool name to another cool name just because you climbed it in a different style is lame. Free it is not better, just different.

 

 

The Optimists already had a name. I would have liked to have heard "Beth Rodden just freed the first pitch to "the great roof" at Smith rock". And then the specs to go along with it. Like the history to the route and how a aid line there could not have been freed by the local hardman.....so they had to bolt it. Or maybe it could have been freed....oh wait, we will never know now.

[G-spotter]

"The Great Roof" is just descriptive. Anyway "The Optimist" (get the name right) doesn't even go anywhere near the roof so why call it the Great Roof?

 

And it was a Smith local hardman who bolted it but couldn't free it. And no-one from Oregon has yet been able to free it. Just a California girl and a Canadian guy. WTF Oregon? You aren't representing no more.

[pink]

You mean new thing, like the way Bridwell and John Long "disrespected" the East Face of Washington Column by renaming it Astroman when they freed it in the 1970's? Yeah right

Learn some history, boy. [/quote

 

 

didn't i mention that on the oher thread. good one dru.

[G-spotter]

Well I could have gone on about how Joe Brown renamed some aid line to Right Eliminate when he eliminated the aid on gritstone in the 1950's but you have probably never heard of Joe or of gritstone.

[Cobra_Commander]

someone needs a joe brown helmet (and I mean that in the nicest way)

[pink]

Well I could have gone on about how Joe Brown renamed some aid line to Right Eliminate when he eliminated the aid on gritstone in the 1950's but you have probably never heard of Joe or of gritstone.

 

 

i can't beleive it's not butter.........................SPRAY.

 

THIS IS THE ROCKCLIMBING FORUM.

 

 

[G-spotter]

You want to talk about disrespect, how about when someone adds ONE BOLT, just one, between two lines, links up the cruxes, and then gives the link-up a whole new name. Eh?

[pink]

kinda like the triple direct. bridwell added two pitches and linked three routes and wah la "the triple direct".

[kevbone]

You want to talk about disrespect, how about when someone adds ONE BOLT, just one, between two lines, links up the cruxes, and then gives the link-up a whole new name. Eh?

 

I agree that is a little lame.

[pink]

You want to talk about disrespect, how about when someone adds ONE BOLT, just one, between two lines, links up the cruxes, and then gives the link-up a whole new name. Eh?

 

is that sarcasm i smell? or am i still in kansas.

[sexual_chocolate]

It's sarcasm, and you're still in kansas.

[pink]

sarcasm belonging in spray.

[sexual_chocolate]

commentary about sarcasm belongs in spray.

[pink]

commentary about sarcasm belongs in spray.

 

 

you should go back to law school.

[sexual_chocolate]

you are ruining a perfectly fine thread about important issues with your illegal banter.

 

now who the heck bolted this climb that was illegally named the optimist after it was called the great roof which was its legal name?

 

after i finish law school, i will be looking.

[pink]

[kevbone]

now who the heck bolted this climb that was illegally named the optimist after it was called the great roof which was its legal name?

 

I guess we will never know.

[Winter]

I feel much better now that this thread is back on track.