Climbing question

[sweatinoutliquor]

My vote is for St. Helens in April or May... Go when there is still snow... Rent crampons and and ice axe (but don't spend more than 10 bucks a day for both... Usually they are pretty cheap, at least where I'm coming from). Go when it's a cold night and the snow is firm. The climb/hike to the top is easy, but give you plenty of time to shread a pair of pant's trying to figure out how those pointy things on your feet work. Read about how to self arrest, then practice the techniques with your crampons off on a short slope that doesn't runout into rocks or other danger. Maybe try to glissade down if the conditions are good, but again, take your crampons off before you do so. The view from the top is something you aren't going to find anywhere else, but don't go too close to the edge as it could be corniced!

[BirdDog]

I wouldn't trade my physical prowess for your experience under any circumstance. With a map, a little common sense, and determination anything is possible. I don't think I'm attemping anything stupid here, that is why I'm asking for advice.

 

runningrat;

Not trying to be rude here but I think you are attempiting something stupid. Pysical prowess is no substitute for climbing knowledge or experience. The route to muir can turn into icy white out conditions very quickly, even in summer. Could you have navigated your way down in those conditions? The Muir snowfield does sometimes develop cravasses. Could you rescue one of your buddies from a cravasse with the gear you had? I would say you would be fool hardy to do any mountain snow travel without crampons and ice axe, and the total knowledge of self arrest.

 

Please read a recent post in Mt. Hood Rescue, why not go up... by billcoe. While this peticular event had a happy ending, many do not. Read up on climbing, hypothermia, accidents etc... then make your decision.

[dan_forester]

like someone else said, get a copy of "Freedom of the Hills" and read it before you set out to really climb something. Even if you're not interested in the "technical" part of climbing, it'll give you a good background in wilderness navigation, what kind of clothes to wear, how to use crampons & axe, and so forth.

 

you can rent crampons & axe at REI and lots of other places and I'd recommend doing that if you're not sure you want to get into climbing big-time.

[kevbone]

you can rent crampons & axe at REI

 

Speaking of REI. I was working there about 5 years ago. This guy in a black leather jacket showed up. He stated he wanted to climb Mt. Hood. I started talking with the guy to find out he just moved to Ptown from somewhere in the Midwest. His first real views of any real mountains were the cascades and Mt Hood, he stated he just wanted to know about it and rent crampons and Ice axe. I tried to tell him to get into a guided service or something. Gave him the Mazama pamphlet and all. He stated “it will be easy; don’t I just follow the line of other climbers”? I still tried to talk him out of going by himself, due to he had only seen snow a few times. This guy looked like he just got off his hog and got done drinking beer. Either way, I could not stop him. He rented crampons and axe. 3 days later he strolled up to me and returned the equipment and said it was easy and he got to the summit by following the crowd. I never got the impression he was lying.

 

Crazy thing people do. Sometimes courage is all you need……and an REI membership. Ha, ha.

 

Edited December 14, 2006 by kevbone

[chucK]

June will probably have some snowcover on just about any bigger peak. So trails will be obscured. A good sense if navigation (map compass?) will be important.

 

If you (or your buddies) have no experience with an ice axe, then it will have just as much chance to hurt you as to help you. A little practice and some studying plus the axe will probably be pretty nice to have on any steep snow. But if you don't have any clue how to use it, don't bother buying/renting/carrying.

 

In June Mt. Si or Mt. Pilchuck might be good easy choices. There'll probably be no snow on Mt. Si and heavy bootpack will established through the snow on Pilchuck.

 

Matt's choices (Hidden Lake Peak and Sahale) should also have good trails pounded into the snow, are a bit more adventurous but much more spectacular than Si or Pilchuck.