Weird Elbow-ish Area Pain

[jasonsalvo]

So, I'm a relatively new climber, and I've started climbing at a gym during the winter. Anyhow, the last few times I've been climbing, I've experienced a weird pain on the tricep side of both arms, just above the elbow, seeming to be in my humerous itself (not very funny at the time). Once it starts to ache, usually after 2-3 routes/problems, I stop climbing, being wary of any weird pains. Then, the pain disappears within 45 min or so, and doesn't return until I try climbing again. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

[layton]

Sounds like you've gone after it a bit too hard. Try warming up with light curls for both biceps and tricpes, and wrist extensors/flexors. At best you have a little micro tear in your triceps or the very early stages of tendinitis, at worst you're developing lateral epicondylitis. Just be sure to warm up, no ballistic motions with your arm (like dynos), and stop when it hurts. Ice ice ice. You can try taping or adding a loose strap around your elbow to take some of the tension off. Don't ibu the crap out of it, try bromelain instead. Get it massaged, try and get your elbow adjusted by a chiro, strengthen your triceps and wrist extensors after the pain is mostly gone away.

[layton]

oh, and der! stretch it before and after

[Weekend_Climberz]

A good way to stretch that is to twist your arm with you thumb down and around so your thumb then faces outwards (for the left hand your thumb goes down and left, vice versa for the right arm). Now place your two hands together, and continue to twist the arm you're stretching the same direction all the while keeping your elbow straight. Hold it for about 20-30 seconds and repeat on the other arm.

 

Mike, couldn't this be developing tendonosis? Not that I'm a doctor or anything.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Oh, and quit crimpin' so much. Open your hand when you grab a hold.

[layton]

I wasn't trying to get too detailed on that, concidering he hasn't had a proper history or physical, so I said maybe and used a vague general term. But here's the low-down

 

Spain-injury to a ligamentous structure

Strain-tear of muscle fiber

Tendinitis-tear of a muscle tendon

Tendinosis-microtrauma or dengeration without inflammation to the tendon.

Paratenonitis-inflammation of the paratendon sheath.

 

Key signs to differentiate these are location location location, pain with active resistance, pain with passive movemetns, pain only at end range, crepitus, creaking, snapping, popping, warmth, redness, swelling, point tenderness, onset of pain.

It's almost impossible to completely and accurately diagnose the difference, it's more of a histological differentiation you can see on a slide, or hopefully an MRI.

 

Either way, the treatments are very similiar.

[ken4ord]

While were on the subject of elbows, here is one for you all. So I set up my bouldering wall awhile ago. I started easy on it only limiting myself to 2 times a week any hold, but mainly big holds. I still limit myself to max 3 times a week, maximum 3 hours per session, but setting problems some that can be done some that can't.

 

Lately I have been developing a strange pain in my elbow. It doesn't hurt moving it or pulling on the wall, but on the forearm side of my elbow on my right arm (I'm left handed) there is a figerprint size area that is super sensative to touch after bouldering sessions. Right now it doesn't hurt if I touch after 4 days off, usually it is just the evening and the day after a session. Anybody got any ideas?

[jasonsalvo]

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully rest and stretching will help and it isn't something scary with weird latinate endings (lateral epicondylitis).

[layton]

While were on the subject of elbows, here is one for you all. So I set up my bouldering wall awhile ago. I started easy on it only limiting myself to 2 times a week any hold, but mainly big holds. I still limit myself to max 3 times a week, maximum 3 hours per session, but setting problems some that can be done some that can't.

 

Lately I have been developing a strange pain in my elbow. It doesn't hurt moving it or pulling on the wall, but on the forearm side of my elbow on my right arm (I'm left handed) there is a figerprint size area that is super sensative to touch after bouldering sessions. Right now it doesn't hurt if I touch after 4 days off, usually it is just the evening and the day after a session. Anybody got any ideas?

 

Sounds like bursitis. Ice it and pad the area to protect it. Kinesiotape works wonders for that (if i'm right...don't know for sure actually). Go see someone to properly diagnose it.

[Maestro]

Last year I had it in my upper arm and the doc said it was "referred pain" from bursitis in my shoulder. He gave me a steroid shot and eventually it went away.

 

Now I have it in my elbow, almost like you describe only in just one arm. Maestrette (who is a doc) says it is probably developing tendonitis and has me wear a stretchy thing on it when I climb, which does help.

[layton]

careful with the steroid injections, it can severely weaken the joint capsule, not a good thing if the tissues are already compromised.

[Maestro]

careful with the steroid injections, it can severely weaken the joint capsule, not a good thing if the tissues are already compromised.

I just trusted that the doc knew what he was doing. Maestrette recommended him as a good sports medicine guy. It was the only steroid shot I've ever had or hope to have. Doesn't seem to have had any bad effect (at least not that has shown up yet).

[layton]

glad it helped!

[ken4ord]

Now I have it in my elbow, almost like you describe only in just one arm. Maestrette (who is a doc) says it is probably developing tendonitis and has me wear a stretchy thing on it when I climb, which does help.

 

A friend of mine use to have a problem with his elbow and the doctor diagnosed it as tendonitis. He had him tape a band around his fore arm just below the elbow. I have tried that a couple of times and it seems to help but I wasn't sure if it was psycological.

 

Hey Mike, I probably would go to get it diagnosed if I had access to someone who could. I am still next to the heart of darkness, not many good doctors around these parts.

[Weekend_Climberz]

I've heard the witch doctors in the area can brew up a mean elbow cure.

 

[layton]

not a whole lot you can do with bursitis. ice and try not to bump it on anything for a while.

[Gary_Yngve]

the January Climbing issue has an article on elbow pain... wonder what Mike thinks of it.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Funny....So does R&I.

 

As a side note: WTF happened to the ICE in R&I, it's there freaking Jan Issue and the only thing remotely related to ice is Mr. Takeda's article on the CIA mission to plant a nuclear spy device on top of Nanda Devi. Weaksauce

[layton]

i don't get out enough to look at a copy of those mags, somebody sum it up for me please