Figure 8 hazards

[Mister_Anderson]

Ken4ord hit it on the head. If it were 1975 then it would be ok to belay with a figure 8. Sorry, but there are a plethora of highly functional lightweight belay/rappel devices out there that belay and rappel better than any figure 8. At the same time some, such as the petzl reverso and BD Guide ATC allow you to belay two following climbers at once, etc. etc. etc. There's just no good reason to be using one of those clunky old buggers...

[JosephH]

For the past two years of anchor work rapping with a haul bag I used a figure 8 setup as seen in this photo with myself on one strand and the haul bag off the other. These photos were just taken after the two years of using it and after the sport tape was removed from the sling / 8 connection. It was all quite well taped to prevent the girth hitch from cutting and to make it clear which sling was for me and which was for the haul bag. I clipped the sling for me into my harness loops and used a Petzl Shunt directly off the belay loop below it. The system is hard to beat for rapping with a load - particularly if you need to do a lot of stopping and starting.

 

[counterfeitfake]

B-52: 71 g

Lightest device the supports belaying off the anchor with autolock mode.

 

It's true, which is why I got one. Unfortunately it also doesn't seem to lock off for shit. Anyone else feel this way?

[mullster]

I use the figure 8 as a multiple connector point during some rescue work, ala Petzl Paw or anchor plate. Works really well.

[hawkeye69]

 

 

oh my god! all those years with a figure 8 and i coulda died!

 

pffffffffft.

 

figure 8 is just like anything else a tool. and like all good tools improvements are made. but i never heard anyone dieing from crossloading in the 70's. and as far as rappelling the loads arent great enough unless you f&&& something else up.

[Rat_In_Training]

Mullsters team is the American Medical Response Reach and Treat (AMR RAT) Team, a wilderness advanced life support medical team. I am also a part of the team. We highly discourage the use of the figure eight because it causes a need to carry a second device for belaying with. This may not seem like to big of a deal, but our rescue loads often include 10-15 lbs of medical gear (I.E, We bring the ambulance stuff to you, along with ropes, pulleys, pro, and personal equipment. It makes for a duplication of equipment when you can get by with a single piece in the form of a belay/rap device.