Mt Washington

[CraigA]

So how is the West Face on Mt Washington? What I mean is is it an easy route finding route? Can a couple of people who have never been on the mountain find and follow the route ? I realize this is all subjective, but I am just after a few opinions from anyone who's done the climb.

 

Thanks

 

Craig

[csd345]

It's a pretty straight forward route. Having said that, I have gotten off route there before, but I think that was more a function of my choosing the route by trying to remember the it from past trips, rather than by reading the terrain.

 

I think the most important thing to remember is to stay on top of the ridge and follow it along to the spire.

 

It's a fun climb. But as folks posted last month or so, there is a lot of loose rock, so watch yourself while descending the scree field as people higher are likely to send stuff down your direction.

[csd345]

nevermind. i misread your post and my reply was intended for the n. ridge... have fun!

[S_Carter]

Fun, easy route. There's no way to get lost on it. The first pitch looks harder than it is. It has so many cracks that it is something like climbing a ladder. If using a 50 meter rope on the first pitch, you should set the first belay as high up as possible in order to get to the next big belay station. Pro placement gets pretty thin on the next pitch but the climbing is easy.

[iain]

There is usually a pretty clear belay station after the first pitch with a bunch of webbing in the middle of the face. Beware, you absolutely don't want a party above you in the exit gully, as anything they knock down will be funneled directly on the west face route. It is steep enough that the rocks don't hit the face, so you don't have any warning. The first pitch is so-so rock, the second starts bad but gets better to a belay ledge of stacked pitons, and the third is short, but excellent climbing. If the climbing seems too easy, you can up the ante to 5.9 by following the crack on the left of the white corner up to the nasty gully. I found that pro was sketchy at times, particularly right after the first belay (but the climbing is relatively easy). Enjoy, it's a great route.

[mattp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by csd345:

there is a lot of loose rock, so watch yourself while descending the scree field as people higher are likely to send stuff down your direction.

---

No kidding!! Not only is there a lot of traffic on the "standard" route and they frequently shower stones on you, but the descent from the normal route back down to the base of the west ridge is also treacherous. Coming down that way, I once stepped on a twelve foot rock that took a several hundred foot sled ride down the hill.

[gapertimmy]

SCREE surfin!!!

[CraigA]

So is it better to descend the standard route or rap the West Face?

[iain]

N. Ridge is a good descent. A virtual walk-off w/ one rappel if you don't like the looks of downclimbing. Watch out for Mazamas. Check their climb schedule before you set a date to be anywhere near the N. Ridge of Washington. BTW the West Face actually has another pitch once you get into the gulley but it is very easy climbing, basically exposed scrambling to meet up w/ the West Ridge near the summit. A rope is barely needed, but be very careful as anything you knock down will funnel directly on top of your belayer, who is totally unprotected in the gully.

[iain]

Sorry, I shouldn't say a walk-off w/o knowing your skill level. But in comparison to the face it is. There is some exposure, and some new climbers choose to rap twice, others downclimb the whole route. The face is rated 5.6 but I would make sure you are solid at the grade as the pro was questionable at times early on though the climbing is quite easy (maybe we were off-route a bit? I don't think so). Enjoy.

 

[ 08-29-2002, 12:11 AM: Message edited by: iain ]

[KingsMM]

What do the belay anchors look like? Is there and fixed gear, if so how much? Oregon high has a good description but not much on gear.

[cracked]

No fixed belay anchors, if I remember correctly. Or maybe a few fixed rusty pins at the top of the second pitch? Loose, pretty steep, spicy, it's the scariest 5.6 I've ever done. We nearly go hit by some rocks trundled by some idiot on the West Ridge, not cool.

 

Downclimb the N. Ridge.