Any thoughts on the Arcteryx Alpha SL?

[zeroforhire]

I know how some of you feel about arc'teryx.... but I am really looking at getting the alpha sl. I like the fact that it weighs 13 oz, and still offers protection. I was wondering if you all liked it. Please, any owners; tell me your experiences with it. I can pro-deal this at a sweet discount, so that it why I am even considering this. Is this jacket going to hold up in the mountains? Is paclite durable? I would go to XCR, but I am worried about the weight.

[G-spotter]

Is paclite durable?

 

 

You can get something durable OR something light. Not both.

[Fromage]

Paclite sure is light, but it doesn't breathe worth a damn. If you are buying this jacket to leave in the bottom of your pack and only wear it while bailing, then it is fine, but if you actually want to wear it the rest of the time you will be frustrated with its performance. I have a Moonstone paclite jacket that I have been disappointed with. The first time I used it I thought it leaked I got so wet, but then I realized it was me making me wet.

 

If you have a pro deal then get the Alpha LT or the Alpha Comp Hoody (best jacket in the universe), but if you really want something that will breathe and be waterproof you should wait until somebody makes a jacket from eVent that has a decent pattern (Integral Designs uses the fabric but their light eVent jacket fits like a garbage bag).

[zeroforhire]

thanks for the input... the alpha sl has pit zips... wouldn't that help with the breathability? I didn't even think about the alpha comp... it sure looks sweet...

[climbnsparky]

i have got a theta sl which is half pac-lite half xcr. i think it might weigh 16oz. definatley light enough for me. i dosent breath as well as a full xcr jackett, thats why i have a alpha sv also. it is a great in the pack jacket for the summer time, but it stays home when i head up to the mountains. if im worried about the weather i will carry the extra 5.5 ozs of the alpha sv.

pit zips help...... a little, but not enough to make up the lack of breathability of paclite. i agree with what was posted earlier, light weight doesnt mean durability. if you have a prodeal with them look at the alpha lt and theta or beta sl. if this is their fall clinic special it is a serious deal. take advantage of it.

[zeroforhire]

thanks for the info sparky... yes this is the fall clinic special... I hadn't looked into the alpha lt... but it looks pretty good. I am not sure I like the full length cut, because I am pretty short, and am afraid it would fit me like a dress.... but I am looking to get the best jacket for the money. Something light enough to wear around town in the rain, but durable to do some mountaineering in... (i live in seattle) I was already pretty sold on the alpha sl, after reading some good reviews, but now you guys have got me thinking some more. Because this is a prodeal, I am not able to try on the alpha sl or lt... no stores nearby carry it.

[zeroforhire]

any more input? I know y'all have a wealth of knowledge

[Alpaholic]

If you want to wear a hardshell it's a great way to go. It's light and has that great arcteryx fit. I'm not sure it really matters what W/B material you use, it's most likely not going to breath as much as you want it to. I have owned and used XCR, paclite, conduit and pre-cip in the mountains and I always have the same experience as Fromage...too much sweat. Now, perhaps I just need to wear less insulation under my jacket, but I'm not sure that's the problem. The problem is that we expect too much performance out of our gear...more than they can provide. Getting something to be truly waterproof AND truly breathable is a tricky balance that isn't quite there yet (though event may just about have it...havn't tried that yet).

 

Pro climbers are more and more becoming proponents of the soft-shell meathod for the simple fact that they FEEL dryer (the difference between microfiber on your skin and sticky slimey coated nilon) and in fact, dry out (all your layers) faster so long as you keep moving and the storm eventually stops. As a result, I slowly (because I hesitate like all the rest) started to go all soft-shell. Now I almost exclusively use my Gamma MX Hoody or a marmot dry-clime if its warm or both if its cold. The only time this can really screw you is if you are stagnant for a long time and it's really coming down. In this case you either want a waterproof belay jacket if it's cold (the arcteryx model looks nice..Fission Belay I believe) or, if it's warm, an extremely light rain shell that can just sit in your pack till you need it. For this I used to use a pre-cip but then I found the Alpha SL on sale for $90 and though I added about 2oz in weight, the fit is oh so nice, and the hood fits way better over a helmet.

 

So I'm not sure that helps you much as far as what you should buy but at least it will give you another perspective. If you have any questions about the softshell meathod read this: http://www.psychovertical.com/?cuthecrap

and this: http://www.psychovertical.com/?thebestsoftshell

and here you will find a great summary of what to wear in the mountains: http://www.psychovertical.com/?alpineclimbingequipment

 

cheers

[rbw1966]

If you can pro-deal it why don't you just get a couple different jackets, keep the one that works and sell the others?

[zeroforhire]

well, it I sold the others, I would get fired

[cj001f]

I've had it's predecessor (Beta SL) for a bit. Durable. Breathes as well as any other gore product.

[zeroforhire]

hey alpaholic,

 

thanks for the great resources... really opened my eyes to a lot of things. I think I am going to get a Gamma Mx hoody, and a lightweight Patagonia Rain Shadow shell for the times it gets especially wet.