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Posted

OR crack – Fat Crack @ Skinner’s Butte

OR bolts – Moons of Pluto

 

WA crack – NW Face finish on Burgundy Spire

WA bolts – Racer X, Urban Bypass on Dreamer

 

BC crack – Sunblessed

BC bolts – Treasure in the Lichen @ Skaha

Posted

Favs right now

 

WA Bolts: Crux pitch on Dark Rhythm

WA Crack: The pitch before the offwidth on EF Lexington (climbed off route using the Tooth and Claw finger crack)

 

I have only climbed in OR once. I thought 5 gallon buckets was fun. The only crack I climbed on that trip had a weird name that started with Lyc.......

Posted
ROTC 5.11c and not 5.11- unless you are talking about on TR. Lead it and it goes at 5.11c. Tim, you are a chump.

ROTC really did feel like 11a to me but I did take 1 fall: The lower part went fine but in the finishing slot, after fully shaking out on a nice jam I moved to another handjam--and I inadvertantly let the sling from my cam placement get between the back of my hand and the rock so I slipped out of the jam and fell...I then got back on (without really resting, and well below the slot) and climbed through to finish the pitch.

 

I have only tried the pitch once and haven't hiked back up to get a clean ascent so I guess it is lame for me comment on the grade. But FWIW a friend of mine who did successfully onsight on lead also thought ROTC felt closer to 11a than 11c.

 

But anyway, whatever you call the grade it's an awesome pitch!

rotc4-fix.jpg

(photo by Sky)

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