first ascent [TR] WA Pass: South Early Winter Spire- F.A. Mojo Rising III 5.11 A1 10/14/2006

[glassgowkiss]

it was the golden rock area with some nice looking corners. second pitch would have been an overhanging corner. the first one was a crack, that looked like butt cheecks (no positive jams either). felt like some sort of 5.12. it's hard to judge these pitches while your feet skate every move.

anyway Brian- i'd like to ask you to change in the approach description the distance from the notch. it's like few hundred yards rather then couple hundred of feet.

[Bryan_Burdo]

Bob- Looking at what I wrote: "300' of downclimbing", I see the problem. What I meant was 300' loss of elevation, rather than 300' of travel. I will make the correction (and a photo should help considerably). I did include a locator diagram that indicated that you had to descend the step below the middle of the face, but it was a small picture.

 

On the other hand, maybe you just couldn't resist jumping on the first "butt cheeecks" you came across?

[Bryan_Burdo]

Mark- great trip report as usual. Looks like some great climbing and I look forward to checking it out next season. It was great to see you guys up there all enthused'n stuff. Almost as good as our FB sighting.

[bwrts]

Mark- great trip report as usual. Looks like some great climbing and I look forward to checking it out next season. It was great to see you guys up there all enthused'n stuff. Almost as good as our FB sighting.

 

Was FB laying in the trail/panting and calling for any available girls?

 

A coworker of mine ran into him awhile back and described the encounter just like that.

 

Mark is the king of enthusiasm.

[Blake]

Graham Zimmerman and I established a direct start to this route, taking the cracks just left of the original bolted/aid start. This variation joins the route beneath the *** 5.9 finger crack which initially attracted the FA team. Like all routes in the area, it will benefit from more traffic to keep it clean. Climbed this way, the route is similar in character/length/difficulty to the nearby West face of NEWS.

 

[Michael Telstad]

Just repeated the route last Sunday. Stellar line and definitely has real free climbing potential on that second pitch, though currently a bit out of my pay grade.

I'm curious if anyone has tried trundling the scary block on the last independent pitch. It adds some unneeded stress to a pretty low stress route, and seems like it would go pretty easily, either via crowbar or un-expecting leader.

Edited July 14, 2019 by Michael Telstad