Winter Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 (edited) Climb: Lovers Leap - Hardly Strictly Bluegrass- Date of Climb: 10/6/2006 Trip Report: Back at the desk after another excellent trip that once again call into question the sanity of holding down a regular job. Why? K and I started out at Lovers Leap. First time we've been there, and we loved it. Free camping. Beautiful rock. No mid-week crowds. Cool locals. We pulled into the parking lot and the first guy we see says "My japanese friend here is looking for a rid to Yos. You going that way?" We knew right away he was talking about Tacos, who we met at Red Rocks in the spring of '05. She got dropped off by some strangers on a cold windy night when the campground was full. I asked her if she was ok and she asked if she could crash in our site. We've been there before and obliged. Haven't seen her since, but there she was at the Leap 18+ months later. Ended up climbing with her a bit and hanging in Camp 4 through a rainstorm later in the week. Fess up - who knows Tacos? Someone out there must have met her before, because apparently all she does is travel around North America bumming rides and looking for climbing partners. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/119Haystack_2_small_-med.jpg' alt='119Haystack_2_small_-med.jpg'> Bear's Reach is a good warm up to the area. Haystack was a walk with one semi-hard move at the fun roof. Look for the jug. Surrealistic Pillar to the Line Yeah the line kicks ass. I thought it was sustained but pretty easy for 5.9. Incredible rock and a great position. Watch out for the blind reach to the loose flake on pitch 2. Someone needs to trundle that shit before it takes out a belayer. The Groove to Hospital Corner Hospital Corner was definitely the highlight. HIGHLY recommended for anyone within spitting distance of being a solid .10a trad leader. A steep corner, tons of pro, incredible rock and an awesome position. Also got some time in at Phantom Spires. Cool place. BIG knobs. From there we drove over Tioga Pass, through the Meadows and Camp 4 to San Francisco for Hardly Strictly Bluegrass. Del and the Boys Del kicks ass. The Ladies The Bums Bonerama at the Boom Boom Room on Staurday Night. Oh yeah ... a little piece of Nawlins in SF for the weekend. 4 trombones, a souzaphone, a drummer and guitarist blaring Crosstown Traffic at you from 5 feet away at 3 am. How much do we need to retire? Gear Notes: no computer, no cell phone and no worries Approach Notes: PDX-Lovers Leap-Tioga Pass-Camp 4-SF-PDX Edited October 12, 2006 by Winter Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Looks like an awesome trip. That place is so much fun. I think there is a picture of that new route somewhere on supertaco. Quote
olyclimber Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Great climbing and that is a hell of a line up for the Hardly Strictly Festival. Wish I could have made it down for that. Quote
gmknight Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Looks like a great trip. Nice pics, Hospital Corner looks outstanding. Quote
catbirdseat Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Sounds like an all-in-all super trip. Quote
colt45 Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 Great photos! And good choice on hitting Hospital Corner, it's probably the best 5.10a pitch I have ever climbed. Fess up - who knows Tacos? Someone out there must have met her before, because apparently all she does is travel around North America bumming rides and looking for climbing partners. I met her at the Bugaboos (pretty sure it's the same person). While she was climbing the Kain Route on Bugaboo spire, she left her boots at the base and they disappeared--probably stolen by an animal so she had to hike back to the hut in her rock shoes, borrow a pair of "real" shoes from someone in the hut, hike to the car, drive to Canmore, buy a new pair of boots, drive back, and hike up again! Quote
Winter Posted October 13, 2006 Author Posted October 13, 2006 Oh yeah, Tacos told me about that Bugaboo incident. Funny. Some snaffle somewhere is having babies in a nice pair of comfy booties. Quote
CatsClaw Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Winter you should check out the Strawberry Music Festival held in the spring and Fall at Camp Mather. Its got a real good vibe http://www.strawberrymusic.com/home.asp Thanks for the pics Quote
billcoe Posted December 28, 2006 Posted December 28, 2006 Great TR, that place rocks and you did some real classics! God they have some stuff down there you can dream about as you drift off to sleep. Ujahn bought me the Lovers Leap guidebook for my last birthday present and is panting like a dog on a leash to head down there. (I printed his name on the cover and will re-gift it to him for his birthday) Quote
Winter Posted December 28, 2006 Author Posted December 28, 2006 Mmmm ... granite and bluegrass. Quote
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