Leuthold Couloir

[CraigA]

I messed up my knee earlier this winter but I'm planning my return . I have penciled in March 16 as the date and Leuthold Couloir as the route. Does this date and route seem ok? What I've read is it is best done in early season; does March 16 still constitute "early season"?

Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Craig

[imorris]

Whether "early season" or no, the time to climb L.C. is in cold clear, settled conditions w/ a solid snow pack. Your date gives you a good opportunity for these conditions, but you never know. The couloir has seen fantastic conditions in both December and May, but can turn ugly really fast. High winds knock off rime from above down on you, and warmer weather will put you at further risk of getting clocked by ice. If possible, climb mid-week or make sure you beat anybody else over to the start, since a party above you will be bombarding you with ice. I have emerged on the summit with a bleeding jaw and swollen eyes from icefall, even in good conditions, due to people above me. If the entrance is heavily-runneled or the runnels are active, consider a Reid hw variation. This is unlikely in March, however, unless things turn out like last year all of a sudden. High avalanche conditions remain quite possible in March. Good luck.

[Alex]

March is a good time to climb that side of the mountain. I would suggest you bust a move to Illumination, check out the route, and decide on 1 of 3 options:

1) do Leutholds Couloir proper unless there is alot of crap coming down it, your approach should have given you a good idea about conditions.

2) Reid Gl Headwall, the snowslopes directly above Illumination to the right of Leutholds. These slopes are reasonably protected from above from the stuff coming off Yocum and down Leuthods. You can then traverse into the top of Leutholds and get to Queens Chair without all the rockfall.

3) Head back over to the Old Chute and go up the S Side. Careful though, this particular way is much more prone to *large* slab avalanches than heading up Hogsback from Crater Rock on the right (standard route). It does avoid the stonefall though.

Alex

PS:

4) if none of this stuff looks fun, strap on the boards (you DID bring skis didnt you?) and head on down

[avypoodle]

I agree totsally agree with what has been posted but would like to add that timing, even a few hours, can make all the difference. When I did it in May a party who had started from the saddle at midnight turned arould shortly after because the snow was way too soft. We woke up at 6 and found the snow to be reasonably firm, with relatively little icefall. Really fun route, might even do it again, good luck!

[vegetablebelay]

[snowleopard_x]

Alex is right (as usual ) but I wonder if he is is thinking "Old Crater" or "West Crater", the latter is more prone to avalanches (though really Old Crater is the top of West Crater). If your skills are up for it, consider an ascent of the routes on the East Crater rim as an alternative. Short but steep, topping out with great views on Steel Cliffs, and leaving the funnest part of the Wy East Route as yoru finish. I agree with Iain too on Leuthold. It's a great place to be, but watch the conditions. I got smashed in the hand with ice on Leuthold. Ried Headwall likes to dump rocks, but in March this shouldn't be a problem. I'll actually be on the west side in two weeks and will report then. Up there for four days to see what the mountain has to offer.