Blake Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 I was at Vantage the other day and did Air guitar. I was wondering what caused the death of Goran Kropp? I know there is a huge thread about it, but there weren't really any "known" facts, and there is just a lot of speculation in there. It seems like the top 20", from which he fell, is easily protectable with #3 or 4 camalots, or big hexes. Was there ever a proven consensus on the cause of the death? P.S. Is it standard to go out right onto the chalked arete to bypass the finger tip section near the beginning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Blake, take the time to look it up and read it. Pretty interesting actually. Since being in the NW meeting a lot of alpine types I've noticed some of them have a less detailed (technical) approach and more cavalier attitude towards pro in general. This probably serves them well in alpine settings, but not necessarily on rock. Can't say that was the case with Goran, but I've noticed this tendency over the years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Blake, I assume you have seen this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Blake, I assume you have seen this? A good, succinct discussion. Germane to the "bolt clipping" thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 thanks Pax, thats what I was looking for. I'm not a good technical climber for hard routes, but this seemed easier than the 5.9s at Index and Castle Rock. Is that typical for vantage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arc Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 He's dead, let it go.........................climbers die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 thanks Pax, thats what I was looking for. I'm not a good technical climber for hard routes, but this seemed easier than the 5.9s at Index and Castle Rock. Is that typical for vantage? Yes, although I'd say Air Guitar is the easiest 5.10a at Vantage. Go try George and Martha some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I climb the first 15-20 fee mostly on faceholds but stay in the corner. My first two pieces are blue and green aliens. There's really only one or two widish moves to end the climb. You're standing on a ledge where you can place a #4 friend, and then about 10 feet above the ledge to the left is a huge jug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Just stand on the damn boulder to get your first piece in, make it a nut, put it as high as you can get it and then jerk set the hell out of it. That way your protected from the groundfall onto the big pointy boulder for the first few moves until your up the point where you can start getting larger and more regular gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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